The wine world resembles a universe, each country a bright galaxy, and within that, hundreds of constellations stretched across space, like vineyards climbing mountain valleys, volcanic islands and rolling hills.
Italy's geographic diversity and historic destiny make it an intriguing place to explore wine. For thousands of years, wine has been drunk on and off the peninsula. Today, over 350 grape varieties grow on nearly 3,000 miles of land, and many are indigenous. (Compare that to California, the largest wine producing state that plants 120 varieties across 700 miles.) For millennia, all of the elements - earth, air, fire and water - have factored in to the flavor that comes from these vines.
To make sense of the magnitude of Italian viticulture, our palate and all of the pairing possibilities that will surely transpire in 2021, we asked award-winning sommelier Shelley Lindgren to match Italian wines and regional dishes with the 12 signs of the Zodiac.
As a Sagittarius, Shelley is not afraid to take risks. She honeymooned in Italy, slept on ferry boats en route to Sardinia and road tripped across the country from top to bottom multiple times. She opened successful restaurants in San Francisco and Oakland, including A16 pizzerias and a pizza truck, and was the first to serve San Franciscans Mount Etna reds and whites by the glass. Her distinctive wine programs have always showcased small Italian wine producers, for which the Italian government recently knighted her.
She keeps returning to the bel paese, and has mused that perhaps she was Italian in another life.
Shelley Lindgren, an award-winning sommelier, restaurateur and cookbook author, was recently knighted by the Italian government for her efforts to bring small Italian wine producers to San Francisco.
“I’ve always gone deep into regions in Italy that weren't quite so popular,” she said. “And I’ve always beaten to my own drum. I love travel, community and supporting others. I’m also hardworking, and want to get behind the good people doing good work.”
Shelley's mini-universe of Italian wine-lovers in the Bay Area keeps expanding. During the pandemic she launched a regional Italian wine club that meets virtually every month.
Her second book, “The New Italian Wine,” will come out this spring. For those interested in purchasing a horoscope wine or the twelve bottles of the Zodiac, sign-up here.
ARIES: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
Dear Aries, you are the youngest sign of the Zodiac. Your fiery personality resembles the bright orange and red saffron grown in the region of Abruzzo. Your daring character makes you suited for scaling the highest of rugged peaks, like the Gran Sasso d’Italia in the Apennine mountains. The determined ram that you are deserves nothing but an indigenous alpine grape- the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.
Wine: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo by Emidio Pepe
Tasting Notes: “Dark and deep color, rich in fruit and tannins. Think: licorice, blackberries and leather.”
Food Pairing: Capra Alla Neretese, a wild goat stew with mushrooms, fried bell peppers, and pearl onions
TAURUS: Taurasi
Dear Taurus, you are majestic, often inspiring worshippers for your inherent beauty, like the Taurasini people, who once lived in the southern region of Campania. But you are also persistent and consistent like the Greeks who settled across the Mediterranean and brought Aglianico grapes–some say the first ever– to the southern shores of Italy. As an Earth sign, you understand the power of soil, and how Vesuvius’ volcanic minerals make all the difference when those grapes are turned into Taurasi wine. Distinctive and reliable yet surly in moments, you are the last to be harvested and always worth the wait.
Wine: Taurasi by Cantine Lonardo
Food Pairing: Braised lamb with San Marzano tomatoes and rosemary
Tasting Notes: “Complex, age-worthy, strong, bold and elegant.”
GEMINI: Vernatsch/Schiava
Dear Gemini, there are two sides to everything. Like the Trentino-Alto Adige region of Northern Italy that embraces both its Germanic and Italian cultural influences and the twinning Vernatsch and Lagrein grapes of the region –you always find ways to reconcile the seemingly dueling sides of your character. Ever adaptable, never dull and full of dynamism, you bloom in every setting, like the sturdy tall vines that grow into gorgeous pergolas, shading medieval abbeys, backyard vineyards and co-ops.
Wine: Vernatsch by Franz Gojer
Food Pairing: A local freshwater fish, like turbot, with knedlíky dumplings and a smokey cheese
Tasting Notes: “Schiava/Vernatsch grape is called the “frappato of the North.” This wine is bright and tastes of high-toned fruit and rose petals.”
CANCER: Frappato di Vittoria
Dear Cancer, like the Sicilian immigrants that once arrived in San Francisco and taught many how to enjoy and fish for the precious and delicious Dungeness crab, you are ever loyal to tradition and ever caring for the people and things in life that you hold dear. And like Sicilian cuisine, with its sun-ripened recipes that explode with the flavors of land and sea, you feel most energized in proximity to sunshine and water. The Frappato di Siciliana, a sunny Sicilian wine known for its friendliness and approachability resembles the best in you.
Wine: Frappato di Vittoria by Ariana Occhipinti
Food Pairing: boiled crab (freshly fished) and served at room temperature, drizzled with a little bit of lemon and aioli
Tasting Notes: “Medium-light bodied red is low in tannins, a vibrant, light, and red-fruit wine. You’ll taste wild strawberries and raspberries."
LEO: Amarone della Valpolicella
Dear Leo, no other city in the world celebrates you more than that of Venice, where you remain a symbol of the city's patron saint, and to an extent, the ruler of that kingdom. A center of creativity and commerce, Venice is where new spices, coffee and foods were given attention. But the romantic in you doesn’t always want the serenity of Venetian customs, and for this, you are best matched with the Amarone grape grown in the area outside of Venice. It's powerful, elegant and sought after, like you.
Wine: Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG by Azienda Agricola Graziano Prà
Food Pairing: Radicchio risotto with walnuts
Tasting Notes: “This is one of the most romantic grapes in the world. The labor that goes into making an Amarone wine is one of love. It’s silky, balanced, fruit-forward, bold and strong, and one of the most collected.”
VIRGO: Sagrantino
Dear Virgo, your hardworking traits and practical approach make you naturally at home in the landlocked region of Umbria also known as the “green heart of Italy.” There, the indigenous grape, Sagrantino, was once picked by nuns. And like your symbol, the virgin, the first written record of this grape was given a holy context as a communion wine. At times, Virgo, your kindness, scrupulousness and organizational ease is hard to find in others, much like the Sagrantino, which can be rarely located in cellars outside of Italy. But when found, like you, it’s very much a pure expression of the earth.
Wine: Sagrantino by Antica Azienda Paolo Bea
Food Pairing: Farro salad, a dish of lentils, and of course, truffle!
Tasting Notes: “The Sagrantino is much like a small berry with a thick skin. It has to age a long time. They say it helps for a long life and gives you youthful characteristics!”
LIBRA: Cesanese
Dear Libra, your innate sense of fairness and diplomacy align with ideals of Rome, home of the storied Roman senate. For this, your essence comes through in a Cesanese, a quintessential red wine of Rome. You understand balance better than all, so what could be better than this interesting table wine cultivated in the region of Lazio.
Wine: Cesanese by Damiano Ciolli
Food Pairing: Cacio e Pepe pasta
Tasting Notes: “This wine is lower in tannins – similar to a Barbera. It’s round and has a lovely spice, like black pepper, cardamom, red fruits, currants, and a bit of a dried herb character akin to oregano. As a small producer, Damiano is similar to Ariana Occhipinti with a limited supply and a great following. His wines have style, and he keeps raising the bar. ”
SCORPIO: Primitivo
Dear Scorpio, the caves, canyons and gorges of Basilicata, a region in the south of Italy, are a pleasing and secret habitat for a scorpion like you. For multiple millennia, humans have shown their loyalty for this place, using their bravery to dig into the surrounding hillsides to make dwellings and later to build the ancient city of Matera. Like you, they knew that what lies beneath the surface matters most, and this is why the Primitivo is your grape of choice.
Wine: Primitivo by Tenuta Parco dei Monaci
Food Pairing: Orecchiette with broccoli rabe and a sweet Senise pepper on top
Tasting Notes: “Primitivo from the Matera DOC is grown in a warmer area, not right on the sea, so it’s rich, full and not so heavy.”
SAGITTARIUS: Sangiovese
Dear Sagittarius, in the towns of Tuscany, the divide between equine and human is dissolved when each town unbridles its passion for the annual Palio horse races. Being the archer, you find freedom and empowerment when seeking a target off in the distance. Whether you’re in the city of Siena or an ancient bath with lingering traces of Etruscan centaurs, you are most grounded when reminded of the majesty of horses. For this reason, a Sangiovese Grosso, an elegant wine named after the blood of jove, works for your freedom-loving palate.
Wine: Sangiovese by Stella di Compalto
Food Pairing: A beef steak with rosemary.
Tasting Notes: “These biodynamic wines by a woman wine-maker are so ridiculously good. They can be hard to come by, too. I love the high-toned red fruits of this Sangiovese. It reminds me of horses in the way they walk and stand up straight with such elegance. This is truly a beautiful wine.”
CAPRICORN: Tintilia
Dear Capricorn, your knack for patience, timing and precision make you a contented pragmatist at heart. Even in the most rustic of circumstances, you are able to forge your own path with mastery, never wasting time, energy or money. In the small quiet towns of Molise, it's not uncommon to suddenly hear the commotion of an old woman herding a flock of sheep with the command of a tiny bell. Thus, for you, the Tintilia del Molise demonstrates your strength and discipline.
Wine: Tintilia del Molise by Claudio Cipressi
Food Pairing: Zuppa di ceci, or chickpea and pasta bean soup
Tasting Notes: “This wine has velvety tannins with red plum, tobacco, cocoa powder, licorice, blackberry and cloves. It goes well with the hearty and healthy cuisine of the area.”
AQUARIUS: Nuragus
Dear Aquarius, you are almost the oldest sign of the Zodiac and highly original. With its jagged cliffs, snowy peaks, desert canyons, and of course, stunning seascapes all on a single island, Sardinia fulfills your desire for originality, independence and fresh air. Here, the white grape called the “Nuragus” was planted by the Phoenicians centuries ago. It's revitalizing and restorative and feeds the imagination, especially when contemplating how the lost civilization of Atlantis might have once existed beneath this large island.
Wine: Nuragus by Pala Wines
Food Pairing: Bottarga! That luxury ingredient.
Tasting Notes: “A straw-like color, this white wine tastes light and crisp. This wine reminds me of the beachy smell of sand, yellow plum, green grass and lemon.”
PISCES: Bianchello
Dear Pisces, You are not one fish but two, and so wise you thrive in the freshwater currents of the river valleys and the briny Adriatic Sea that hugs the coasts of Italy's Marche region. Around these moving waters, grapes like the Bianchello grow intuitively in the sandy soils. A light white wine that elevates a feast of fish, its pleasant citrus aromas mirror your gentleness and compassionate personality.
Wine: Bianchello del Metauro by Claudio Morelli
Food Pairing: Brodetto made with a tomato, fish, white pepper, shrimp and clams or a crudo
Tasting Notes: “A light white, dry and aromatic, with notes of orange blossom and lemon verbena.”