President’s Day comes with few notable traditions. But a toast of “Philip” Cabernet Sauvignon from the Fonterutoli Estate in Tuscany, Italy is an appropriate option. The namesake, Philip Mazzei, was an illustrious member of an Italian winemaking family that taught Thomas Jefferson, America's second president, the ins and outs of Italian wine over 200 years ago.
Mazzei, a trained surgeon turned merchant-statesman, was one of the first to call himself a “citizen of the world.” The Enlightenment values that permeated his native country of Tuscany were evident in his way of liberal thinking. He is credited for inspiring Jefferson’s introduction in the Declaration of Independence, namely that “all men are created equal."
“Tuscany was a completely different modern state, much more democratic than the rest of the countries at that time. So that’s why Philip brought some new ideas and ideals about freedom and equality,” says CEO Francesco Mazzei, a distant cousin of Philip. “Jefferson was very touched and impressed by that, which didn't mean he didn't stop behaving in the way he was used to.”
Just a few years before the American Revolution, Mazzei arrived in Virginia with a group of Italians, ready to farm 193 acres adjacent to Jefferson’s Monticello home. He brought hundreds of vines from Tuscany and France, olive trees, and other European varieties.
By this time, Jefferson, a well-known Italophile, was eager to see Italy’s grapes and olives take to the climate and soil of Monticello, his “little mountain.” Jefferson had taught himself Italian while a student at William and Mary, and later, he spent three weeks in Northern Italy to observe rice farming techniques. There, he tried Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and developed a lifelong passion for Montepulciano wine. He became a de facto sommelier to other founding fathers’ wine cellars and imported European wine for most of his life—even when his finances couldn’t bear it.
The Hamlet of Fonterutoli Estate in Tuscany produces Philip, a Tuscan Cabernet Sauvignon inspired by the character and achievements of Philip Mazzei.
With Mazzei’s knowledge and experience, there was hope for America’s first “wine company." But a bitter frost and the distractions of the war prevented the vineyard from achieving great success. Still, Mazzei and Jefferson’s friendship deepened, with Mazzei becoming a firm supporter of the American cause.
Today, the Mazzei family has carried on the winemaking tradition. At the Fonterutoli Estate, just over 20 kilometers north of Siena, they farm 117 acres of vines in rocky soil, a tradition that started in 1435 and hasn't stopped in 25 generations.
CEO Francesco Mazzei belongs to the 24th generation of winemakers in the Mazzei family.
Because Philip Mazzei lived a worldly life, CEO Francesco Mazzei says the family chose to memorialize him with an international varietal. The Philip wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes grown in two areas, on the hills of Chianti Classico and the coast of Maremma, allowing for a combination of the acidic and elegant flavors from the Fonterutoli Estate and a powerful minerality from the seaside property. The wine is aged for 18 months in American and French Oak barrels.
The wine has received a positive reception since its first vintage in 2008, especially at Monticello, one of the main sellers. That said, Mazzei was surprised to discover that one country in particular became quite fond of the wine.
“We've had pretty great interest all over the world, not in the same amount as in the US, but we’re selling the wine all over Europe, Italy, and in the UK, which is not a paradox, but the story of Philip Mazzei is against Great Britain," he says with amusement. “He fought for independence and fought against Great Britain.”
A new winery building at the Fonterutoli Estate in Tuscany, Italy.
When asked if there's any similarity between Philip Mazzei and the workings of the organic vineyard now, Mazzei believes some elements live on—although he cannot confirm whether the current vines are related to those planted at Monticello.
“I can absolutely imagine the enthusiastic approach of that guy coming from Tuscany with workers and 10,000 vines to discover a New World and try a new adventure there,” Mazzei says. “If you look at what we're doing now at Fonterutoli, we are trying to be ahead of the times. We have built a new beautiful winery, and we're consistently doing experiments and research. It’s part of our spirit and soul.”