This summer, Elena Iacono, a second generation Italian Canadian, devoted her time to a secret project: turning her late grandmother's Italian recipes into a philanthropic cookbook.
At first, Elena cooked as a way to grieve her grandmother and delight her husband with Southern Italian meals, but soon she realized the dishes could be something more.
“It came to me one Sunday afternoon in July," she said. “I’m going to write a book, share my Nonna’s recipes, and give all proceeds to Food Banks Canada to help support food security efforts.”
Her nonna, Maria Dicembre Canci, passed away in April. There was no funeral, and no eulogy for their “Nonna Ma.” The family was not even allowed to say goodbye in person.
Cookbook author Elena Iacono stands with her late grandmother Maria Dicembre Canci.
Elena's new cookbook, “My Nonna Ma’s Kitchen: A collection of homemade Italian recipes” honors her grandmother, and as envisioned, the proceeds are donated to food banks. The book also pays tribute to Canada, the country that welcomed Nonna Ma, who immigrated alone from Abruzzo, Italy, at the end of World War II.
In August, Elena recreated the dishes from memory – nothing had been written down– covering antipasto to desert. She documented the family tricks for creating delicious Italian staples, like brodo, tomato sauce and pasta dough, and she dove into Abruzzese “culinary masterpieces” learned mostly through osmosis. In the kitchen, she still has her nonna’s vintage pasta-maker from the 1960s.
When Elena forgot how much olive oil went in a dish, she called her mother. But, she didn't explain why she needed the answers, wanting the cookbook to be a surprise.
Nonna Ma's famous hand-made ravioli with pomodoro sauce prepared by her granddaughter, Elena Iacono.
The cookbook took just a month to complete. The day before Elena appeared on television to talk about the cookbook, she told her mother about the surprise project.
“I was nervous,” she said. “I didn't know how she would react.”
Elena’s mother was grateful for the memories preserved in the book. It helped both mother and daughter and others to cope with losing a loved one during this challenging time, and brought more attention to the issue of food insecurity.
“We all need that notion of a tender loving grandmother now - this pandemic is brutal,” said Elena. “That’s why, I think, this book has resonated so much - and why people are giving with their hearts to help others in need.”
Elena raised nearly $50,000 (her initial goal was $5,000) for Food Banks Canada, resulting in almost 200,000 meals. She was featured in Vogue Arabia’s inaugural edition on food insecurity, and celebrated during the Johnny Lombardi festival in Toronto’s Little Italy.
Elena Iacono finished her first cookbook “My Nonna Ma’s Kitchen: A collection of homemade Italian recipes” in September, after dedicating a month to trying out family recipes from memory.
When asked for the best recipe in the book, Elena said she had more than one.
“My favourite recipes, I actually have two, are: my Nonna’s coveted ravioli and her Cicerchiata. When I first made her ravioli dish after her passing, I was instantly transported back to her loving company,” she said. “It was bittersweet. In between tears, I devoured my plate. I’ve tried making her cicerchiata dessert twice – but I think I’m missing something…. It’s just not like hers. I think my oil isn’t hot enough..”
But Elena says she will keep playing until she gets it right.
“I’m going to try again given that Christmas is just around the corner. I really miss those good old days of seeing my grandmother beam with pride as we enjoyed her signature dishes – but I’m keeping the memories alive in my household.”
For more information about the cookbook and food bank fundraising efforts, visit her website.