For all of the 1970s and most of the 1980s, U.S.-based fans of real Italian Prosciutto di Parma were out of luck. Due to a ban on the importing of the cured meat, diners had to instead make do with prosciutto that was made in the United States from American hogs, then hung to dry in warehouses in states like Virginia and Missouri. Even though some of these versions were crafted by Italian companies, the taste, naturally, was not the same—and they reflected none of the history or artisanal know-how of the real deal.
In October 1989, however, the 20-year ban was lifted, and Prosciutto di Parma was officially welcomed back into the U.S. In writing about the occasion at the time, the Chicago Tribune explained to its readers that this was not the type of ham that would be found in a sandwich, tucked between slices of cheese and globs of mustard. Instead, they compared the gourmet product to luxury items like caviar or a BMW. “The flavor is concentrated and outstanding,” they wrote, “and at more than $20 a pound, prosciutto di Parma automatically is destined to become a trendy, yuppy extravagance.”
Thirty years later, the famous sliced ham has become more than just a foodie “trend.” American consumers have made the U.S the top export market for Prosciutto di Parma, buying around 600,000 pieces per year, including whole legs and pre-sliced, at an estimated value of €60 million per year. Many of the first U.S. distributors, retailers, and restaurants to import the item back in 1989 have been along for the full three-decade ride, and continue to showcase Prosciutto di Parma in their deli counters or on their menus.
Some of the best places to source the authentic versions are the 109-year-old Di Palo’s specialty grocery in New York City’s Little Italy; the third-generation, family-owned Teitel Brothers on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx; and Philadelphia’s legendary Di Bruno Bros, which has been stocking high-quality items—including many homemade treats—for 80 years. “If we were going to be an authentic Italian grocery and deli, we had to sell authentic product,” says Emilio Mignucci of Di Bruno Bros, who took over the family-owned business in 1990. “And (offering) Prosciutto di Parma was my first step in that direction.”
In honor of the 30th anniversary of Prosciutto di Parma’s return, several specialist partners around the country are offering special deals or hosting themed events through October—making this a great month for getting your fill of the delicacy. In addition to hosting a Prosciutto Fest, New York City’s Agata & Valentina is running customer contests and offering special pricing on their Crown Sandwich and other featured dishes. Denver’s Tony’s Market, meanwhile, is offering 30-percent-off the 600-day Il Numero Uno Prosciutto di Parma, and serving two special prosciutto-based dishes.
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