Peperoncino, the Italian equivalent of chili peppers, is widely used in Italian cooking, in particular in the Central and Southern regions. A product from Calabria, it adds heat to a variety of dishes, and is mostly known on pastas recipes. Because of its shape, similar to a cornetto, or small horn, which in Italy is considered to be lucky charm, clusters of peperoncino are at times hung in homes and commercial spaces to protect against the evil eye, in particular in the area of Naples. In addition to being a cherished ingredient and bringing good fortune, it is a healthy addition to the diet, being rich in antioxidants and vitamins, protects the heart, and is an analgesic.
The spice is used in moderation in Italian cooking, to complement and not cover the taste of the food. Many of New York’s Italian restaurants serve pasta dishes with the perfect amount of peperoncino. Here are a few options to bring in the heat.
Spaghetti Aglio e Olio at Bar Italia
Chef Denis Franceschini of Upper East Side’s posh eatery Bar Italia uses dry peperoncino from Calabria, that he periodically crushes to prepare in his classic spaghetti aglio olio. He slices the garlic very finely and sauté it in extra virgin olive oil with just a few peperoncino flakes. “I make sure the garlic doesn’t get too brown, it is also harder to digest when it is overcooked,” he explains. He adds on half of a ladle of boiling water from the pasta in the pan and let it simmer, and mix in the pasta when cooked with some fresh chopped parsley. He then plates it and adds peperoncino to taste. A few flakes are also used in his must-have orata ragù, a delicate red sauce made with orata fish and served over spaghetti.
Spaghetti Aglio e Olio at Bar Italia
Mafalde alla Pugliese at Morandi
West Village restaurant Morandi is the Italian outpost of Keith McNally, the restaurateur behind the iconic Balthazar and Pastis. The menu featured the classic combination of peperoncino with broccoli rape and sweet sausage, but instead of the traditional orecchiette, it is served over house-made mafalde, a type of ribbon-shaped flat pasta. The traditional sauce from Puglia and is topped with grated ricotta salata cheese, light and salty sheep milk cheese. Spicy food lovers can also try pollo alla diavola, a grilled chicken with chili and lemon.
Mafalde alla Pugliese at Morandi
Struncatura at 10 Corso Como
The Seaport District outpost of Milanese iconic 10 Corso Como concept store brings fashion, style, and Italian cuisine to the newly revamped neighborhood. The stunning restaurant features a humble dish from Calabria called struncatura, a multigrain pasta traditionally made with the leftovers of the grain miller shop. This version is made with farro and rye flour, and dresses it with anchovies, garlic, bread crumbs, and of course, a right dose of peperoncino.
Struncatura at 10 Corso Como (ph @grubstreet)
Another classic dish with peperoncino and popular in several Italian restaurants is penne all’arrabbiata, with a spicy tomato sauce. Try it at Malatesta, Bar Pitti or Serafina.