It appears, considering the row of bright-colored boxes of panettone stacked on holiday-season displays, that the sweet Christmas bread that originated in Italy doesn’t literally have a shelf-life, but by the time the holidays are over, most consumers have had enough panettone to last them until next December. Not at Settepani Bakery in Brooklyn, which celebrates panettone year-round in imaginative ways. Here, owner/chef Antonino “Nino” Settepani tells us why they do it, and what we found is a story of love and family.
When did Settepani Bakery start making panettone?
We started making panettone in 1981 (when the bakery opened). At the time, my brother and I co-owned Bruno Bakery in the heart of the West Village, and we were making it for the holidays. In 1998, with the growth of our prospective families, my brother and I separated, and then Settepani Bakery was born.
The Settepani family at their bakery in the early 2000s.
When did you start making panettone year-round and why?
We started making panettone all year in 1998. You have to see my wife when I come home with panettone! She always requested it, so we made it every month, mainly to make my wife happy. I remember she used to get worried I wouldn’t make another batch, so she would hide a few in closets around the house knowing I wouldn’t find them. It is her absolute favorite item at the bakery. She started using it as French toast at our restaurant Settepani in Harlem when we first opened in 2000, and our customers who didn’t grow up knowing panettone adore it.
When did you start experimenting with variations?
This year my daughter Bilena entered the business, and she has added another twist to the panettone by making a flavor of the month. My daughter is working very closely with me. It's beautiful passing down the family tradition, and it’s always great having new creative minds in this industry.
What are the most popular of the unique panettone?
So far, it's a tie between the Nutellattone and the rainbow, but if you ask my wife there's nothing like the classic Milanese.
Are these variations available daily?
Every day we have Nutellattone, chocolate, Milanese, and always our special flavor of the month. February was red velvet to celebrate Valentine’s Day all month long. In March it is the Italian rainbow cookie (pictured at top). We also have for the Easter season a Colomba Panettone in two ways. It is in the shape of a dove and comes either classico with candied fruit, almond crusted with powdered sugar, and we have an M&M Columba with the candy chocolates, chocolate fudge, and Nutella.
What makes panettone so special to you?
Our last name means “seven breads,” which was only fitting with the line of work we’re in, but panettone specifically is something I grew up eating. I moved to Brooklyn from Italy with my family when I was young, and like any immigrant, things that remind us of home always hold a special place in our hearts, and we pass that love and excitement to our kids with the hope they love it and pass it on, too.
Italian rainbow cookie photo by Margherita Andreani Photography