In today’s New York City, Neapolitan cuisine tends to mean one thing: pizza. Back in 1919, when a family of immigrants from Naples (by way of Egypt) first opened Mario’s Restaurant in the Bronx borough of the city, pizza was also at the core of the menu—though with the then relatively “new” snack just taking off in popularity, the place soon grew from a small take-out pizza window into a full-fledged restaurant. By the 1930’s, Mario’s was serving southern Italian coastal favorites, richly sauced dishes, homemade breads and more in a warm dining room not all that different from what patrons find today, as the restaurant celebrates its 100th anniversary. And it’s all still overseen by what’s now the fifth generation of the Migliucci family.
Once greeted by owners Joe and Barbara, their daughter Regina, or one of the members of the long-serving staff, guests are ushered to a table in a room that’s nothing if not classic: think carved arches and pillars, long banquettes, double white tablecloths, and oil paintings of Neapolitan landscapes. Service is frequently cited as one of the standout elements of the Mario’s experience, and you’ll find it shining in things like the friendly waiters’ helpful recommendations, and the complimentary spiced carrots and seeded bread that’s quickly brought to your table.
The menu sticks to the classics, too, though in recent years it’s been paired down to allow the team to craft more items fresh in-house each day, and to focus on what they do best. Hot and cold antipasti platters overflow with things like clams oreganata, stuffed mushrooms, fresh mozzarella, and eggplant rollatini; the gamberi cocktail comes with Jumbo shrimp and housemade sauce; and the soups include Scarolo in Brodo (escarole in broth) and Stracciatella alla Romana.
For the mains, choose from ten types of pastas, from penne to gnocchi, then pair it with one of the dozen or so sauces, which range from pomodoro and marinara to vongole (red or white), alla vodka, and Alfredo. Baked pastas like meat lasagnas are also available, while separate dedicated menus for chicken, meat, fish, and veal feature things like Braciole Napolitana (rolled beef with peppers or mushrooms), Veal Saltimbocca (veal scaloppini with prosciutto, spinach, and mozzarella in Marsala wine sauce), and Lobster Tail Fra Diavola (with spicy tomato sauce.) Of course, there’s also pizza: though now it’s mainly found on the lunch menu or as an individual Margherita appetizer. If you ask nicely, the staff is usually happy to make you a larger portion that bubbles perfectly with mozzarella and San Marzano tomatoes.