The Michelin 2020 guide, presented at the Municipal Theatre of Piacenza, has awarded Tuscan chef Enrico Bartolini’s restaurant inside the Mudec Contemporary Art Museum in Milan, with three stars. This brings to 11 the number of chefs in Italy with the highest recognition from the “Red Guide.” In the 65th edition of the guide, directed in Italy by Sergio Lovrinovich and internationally by Gwendal Poullennec, there are 30 new 1-star entries, while two additional 2-stars have been added: Glam in Venice, led by chef Donato Ascani (which is part of the Bartolini empire, to bring it to eight stars!) and Madernassa in Guarene, located in Piedmont and led by Michelangelo Mammoliti. So the number of starred restaurants in Italy has climbed to 374: 328 single-stars, 35 2-stars and 11 3-stars.
“For its variety, which harmonizes regional traditions and creativity, for the richness of its products and the excellence of its chefs, Italy shines at the center of the global gastronomic scene,” says Gwendal Poullennec. “Thirty-three new starred restaurants overlook the culinary scene offering their own personal testimony of the infinite variations of the Bel Paese kitchen. Above all, the new 3-star restaurant Enrico Bartolini shines at the Mudec, where the chef’s personality stands out for research and experimentation, blending perfectly with Milan’s dynamism and giving an artist’s touch to the rich Italian gastronomic heritage.”
Regions and provinces
Lombardy is the starriest region, with 6 new features: 62 restaurants (3 3-stars, 5 2-stars 54 1-stars). Piedmont, with its 4 new additions, is perennially in second place as 46 restaurants there made the grade (1 3-star, 4 2-stars, 41 1-stars). Meanwhile Campania, with 6 new entries, ranked third on the podium, with 44 restaurants (6 2-stars, 38 1-stars). Then there’s Tuscany, with 6 new features, for a total of 40 restaurants (1 3-star, 4 2-stars, 35 1-stars) and, finally, the Veneto region chalked up 37, with two new features (1 3-star, 4 2-stars, 32 1-stars). Among the cities and their suburbs, Naples is always at the top with 26 restaurants (6 2-stars ,20 1-stars), Rome is in second place with 24 (1 3-star, 1 2-star, 22 1-stars). Then there’s Milan with 20 restaurants, a city whose gastronomic scene full of vitality sees them finally rewarded (1 3-star, 3 2-stars, 16 1-stars), Bolzano with 19 (1 3-star, 4 2-stars, 14 1-stars), and Cuneo at 18 (1 3-star 2 2-stars 15 1-star).
Esposito protagonist
On top of the stars, there were four special awards: the Mentor Chef Michelin 2020, offered by Eberhard, went to Gennaro Esposito (Torre del Saracino in Vico Equense), who also had the satisfaction of getting a star for IT, in Milan, where he supervises the kitchen. The Young Michelin 2020 Chef, offered by Lavazza, was won by another new star, Davide Puleio (L’Alchimia in Milan); while the Michelin 2020 Service Hall, offered by Coppini, went to Sara Orlando (Locanda di Orta, Orta San Giulio); and the Passion for Wine Michelin 2020, offered by Consorzio del Brunello di Montalcino, went to Rino Billia (Le Petit Restaurant, Cogne). And then there were the discontents, in addition to those who didn’t get a second star (such as Carlo Cracco and Riccardo Camanini): Gianfranco Vissani dropped down to one with Casa Vissani in Baschi. “But at this point they could take both from us, right?” was the Umbrian chef’s comment. “Michelin is an Italian shame, just a commercial speech. Gualtiero Marchesi was right: who are they to judge us?”