Over the 22 years that I’ve lived in New York, the number of Italian cheeses available in the city has increased dramatically, much to the good fortune of formaggio fans. While I adore iconic imports such as Parmigiano Reggiano and Provolone, I also love bringing home harder-to-find specialties that I first tasted in Italy—as well as newer, innovative Italian cheeses that we are truly lucky to have access to in NYC.
From mixed milk delights made in northern Italy to Tuscan treasures that will tantalize your taste buds, NYC’s Italian cheese scene encompasses delicious varieties from all over the boot. Following are five of my favorites that you can find in shops around town just in time for the holidays.
Bergamino di Bufala
Mozzarella di bufala is undoubtedly Italy’s most famous buffalo milk cheese, but Bergamino di Bufala is a quiet cousin that definitely merits your attention. Delicate yet decadent, Bergamino di Bufala has a milky, slightly tangy flavor and a dense, gooey texture complemented by the velvety white rind. It’s a brie-style cheese, aged 10-15 days, and the richness of the buffalo milk—which has about twice the fat of cow’s milk—shines through in this beauty from Bergamo.
Available in NYC at Di Palo’s, 200 Grand Street; From 3BLatte Caseificio in Lombardy
Bergamino di Bufala
Riserva del Fondatore
I tasted Riserva del Fondatore for the first time when I visited family-run producer Caseificio Il Fiorino in southern Tuscany’s idyllic, rugged Maremma region in 2018, and I was blown away. Later that year, this sheep’s milk stunner took top honors among Italian cheeses at the World Cheese Awards, and placed 5th overall among the 3,472 cheeses that were entered from all over the globe. Riserva del Fondatore was developed by husband and wife Simone Sargentoni and Angela Fiorini as a tribute to Angela’s father, Duilio Fiorini, who founded the caseificio in 1957 and passed away in 2017. Aged a minimum of one year, this complex, full-bodied pecorino (pecora is the word for sheep in Italian) is magnificent on its own, and divine when drizzled with honey.
Available in NYC at Bedford Cheese Shop, 265 Bedford Avenue, Brooklyn; From Caseificio Il Fiorino in Tuscany
Riserva del Fondatore
Malghese
A riff on beloved Taleggio, Malghese is made with the addition of sheep’s milk and cream to the classic cow’s milk recipe. This pudgy, pleasantly pungent cheese is meaty, but not overpoweringly so—and the striking orange rind makes it a gorgeous standout on a cheese board.
*Available in NYC at Eataly Flatiron, 200 5th Avenue; From Arnoldi in Lombardy
Malghese
Occelli in Foglie di Castagno
This showstopping mixed milk cheese (cow’s milk plus goat’s or sheep’s milk depending on the season) matures for about 18 months and is wrapped in chestnut leaves, imparting a sweet, caramelly, intense flavor, reminiscent of that in an aged gouda. The texture is crumbly but moist, with tiny crunchy crystals that remind me of smashed bits of peanut brittle. A spectacular cheese any time, but especially at the end of a meal.
Available in NYC at Di Palo’s, 200 Grand Street; From Beppino Occelli in Piedmont
Berghem Blu
Blue cheeses can be quite polarizing—people seem either to love them, or to have written them off entirely. Berghem Blu is an excellent choice for a crowd, with its buttery, not-too-spicy flavor and creamy mouthfeel. It’s approachable, aromatic, and very versatile; I enjoyed it in a rich pumpkin risotto at a dinner hosted by producer Arrigoni Battista in Bergamo, and this mild blue would also be perfect in a panino with prosciutto, melted on pizza, or served with mostarda, the fiery, fruity condiment typical in the region of Lombardy.
Available in NYC at Eataly Flatiron, 200 5th Avenue; From Arrigoni Battista in Lombardy
Kristine Jannuzzi’s Portrait
Kristine Jannuzzi is a New York City-based food and travel writer, content creator, and social media strategist. A bilingual dual American and Italian citizen, she travels frequently throughout Italy for work and pleasure. Her articles have been published in Italy Magazine, The Epoch Times, Culture: The Word on Cheese, Listen Magazine, and British Heritage Travel, among others. Kristine has a particular fondness for formaggio, which blossomed while she was living in Florence. She served as a judge in the 2019 World Cheese Awards in Bergamo. and has taught classes at Murray's Cheese flagship location in NYC, in addition to hosting cheese classes and events at the French Cheese Board, the USA Boska Showroom, and in people's homes. You can follow her adventures on Instagram @nyccheesechick and read more of Kristine’s articles on her website.