When it comes to Italian desserts, it doesn’t get more iconic than tiramisù. Sure, arguments can be made for the importance of cannoli and bomboloni, budino and torta di mele, but—at least in Italian restaurants in the U.S.—no sweet is more popular than the cocoa-dusted “pick-me-up.” (Except maybe gelato—but that’s really more a staple than a dessert, right?) Its vaulted status is clear in Italy, too, as tiramisu is on the list of official dishes of Friuli-Venezia.
The only issue with tiramisù, though, is the inconsistency in quality. Though the origins of the dish are often disputed (some say it dates back to the 17th century, others trace it to a bakery named Le Beccherie in 1969), most agree on the staple ingredients: savoiardi (ladyfinger) cookies, espresso, sometimes some liquor, and a whipped mixture of sugar, eggs, and mascarpone cheese, all topped off with chocolate or cocoa powder.
When done right, the final result should be light, smooth, and almost frothy, a perfectly creamy mix of flavors; when done incorrectly, it can be heavy, soggy, bland, or too boozy or too cold.
Because the quality can differ so greatly, it’s always a delight to find a tiramisu done right—like the one at Bar Primi. Located on the Bowery, bordering the East Village and NoHo neighborhoods, the restaurant from chefs Andrew Carmellini and Sal Lamboglia is a popular pastificio, where fresh pasta is made daily in the traditional way, using organic eggs, 00 flour, and family recipes.
The tiramisù is also made using a time-honed recipe—one that has been in the family of Chef Lamboglia’s father, Tony for over 30 years. Tony himself makes the dessert four mornings a week, lets it set for a day to make sure all the flavors are perfectly in sync, then generously dusts it with cocoa.
Tiramisù at Bar Primi (ph via IG Sal Lamboglia)
Is the final result the best in town? That’s a claim we’re happy to investigate.