Breaking news! Homemade orecchiette made by the women of Bari Vecchia are now in compliance with the law. The regional government of Puglia has now approved a regulation that extends the EU guidelines regarding food hygiene produced in private homes – the so- called Home Food – Home Restaurant. After all, orecchiette – or rather ‘stràscenàte’ in dialect – are a homemade delicacy par excellence, at least in Puglia. On Sundays, it’s an absolute must that you pour out a mix of semolina and regular flour onto a pastry board, making a half kilo of orecchiette to go with meat sauce. With this regulation, Puglia puts an end to the ‘Orecchiette War’ that started last January 24th.
The region’s press release
The regional government announced the new regulatory criteria in a press release. "The preparation and administration of food in premises mainly used as private dwellings," reads the preamble to the resolution, "is an activity that is becoming increasingly common both in Europe and in Italy. Although the quantity of food produced and administered through this new type of food business is not high, the incorrect application of EU and national food safety regulations may constitute a significant public health problem.” The text therefore refers to EU legislation, but remains focused on enhancing typicality and safeguarding Puglia's domestic traditions. However, the resolution leaves the commercial aspect of the activity unexplored: how much can be produced and the limits of operations, for example. That issue is delegated to other administrations (that are not exactly specified).
The new rules
According to the Community guidelines of EC Reg. 178/2002, a food business is defined as "the regular domestic preparation of food not intended for private domestic consumption but for placing on the market for commercial purposes, including serving in the same household.” Therefore, those who want to sell homemade orecchiette will have to make themselves available for possible controls by the government. They must indicate on their doorbell if there is presence of food administration or sales activity. In addition, you must report the activity to the health authorities. Basically, when making orecchiette, the hygienic conditions of the premises must be guaranteed: for example, there must be a sink with hot and cold water that does not have to be operated manually. Procedures must be followed for making and storing the pasta, as well as a label explaining what type of product it is, the date of purchase and expiration date. It is assumed that the producer has received adequate training and keeps all the commercial documentation (e.g. on the purchase of raw materials), to be shown in the event of inspection.
"Call it a crime of pasta"
It all started in January 2020. The seizure of three kilos of fresh pasta in a restaurant in Bari raised such a fuss that even the "New York Times" was wrote an article on the subject. In Jason Horowitz tells the story in his piece, “Call it a crime of pasta.” On January 24th, the newspaper invited Puglia, represented by the mythical Nunzia Caputo, a woman who represents the symbol of Bari Vecchia's old city where the original orecchiette were born. Also with Caputo was the mayor of Bari, Antonio Decaro. From January 24th to 26th, the region was present at a special event with a stand of 36 square meters. Here, in addition to describing the beauty of the area, Mrs. Nunzia delighted visitors with her continuous masterclasses on handmade orecchiette. "It was beautiful,” Mrs. Nunzia tells us on the phone. "We made a bang with that trip. Before, they told me, ‘Nunzia, you're always here?’ I say: ‘You go there at once!’ Too bad the coronavirus blocked us. After New York, there were so many things at stake…". Caputo looks with scepticism at the regulation approved by the Region, saying that it's complicated. In fact, many pasta makers initially rebelled. "In our village, we are used to the house and the shop – not the shop and that's all: where you work, do your work and then leave,” she explains. "I'm trying to respect all the rules, but it's not easy. Then our skirts are more exposed. Some people make orecchiette ‘behind the scenes’... It was the eagerness to sell that damaged us, when we wanted to add tarallino and Dolcetto to the menu. If we had remained anonymous, this would not have happened.”