Kale, Brussel sprouts, avocado toast…and lasagna? You may have noticed that this baked pasta favorite is enjoying a culinary moment right now, popping up menus across the country and even getting its own dedicated cookbook. (Released earlier this fall, Anna Hezel’s Lasagna features dozens of unique recipes for the dish, from Fried Lasagna Bites to a dessert Nutellasagna.) Many chefs across the country are also re-booting lasagna for their restaurants by using unexpected ingredients; Los Angeles’ Nightshade, for example, serves a Mapo Tofu Lasagna, while New York City’s Don Angie’s pinwheel-style Lasagna for Two has become an Instagram favorite (and tastes good, too.)
"In today's world of haute cuisine, forward-thinking techniques and trends, and Instagram popping pictures of colorful and artistic plate-ups, it can be easy to forget about the simple and rustic things that we have always loved since childhood,” says Justin Houghtaling, Chef de Cuisine at Amity & Commerce in Washington D.C. “We grew up with cold winters in New York and Chicago, and there was nothing more satisfying for my family than a steaming pan of lasagna for dinner. It's a dish that I think takes a lot of people back to memories of childhood, and for that reason, will always be special."
Chef Justin Houghaling
Noted chef Laurent Tourondel, Executive Chef of L’Amico and owner Sag Pizza, also appreciates the nostalgia of the dish. “For me, lasagna is the flavor of growing up at my grandma’s house,” he reveals. “I think lasagna is having a moment because it’s been a comfort food for a long time, and now people are figuring out how to make it with different preparations with the pasta, as well as the fillings.”
Before getting creative, though, chefs agree there are some basic rules for making the perfect lasagna. For Tourondel, “the key to lasagna is to make it in advance—which also makes it a great choice when you need to entertain—and re-heat later, as that makes it tastier. That way, it has time to sit and develop flavor.” For Andrew Whitney, Executive Chef at New York’s dell’anima, it’s the ingredients that make the dish. “I think the key to really good lasagna is taking the time to make each component from scratch,” he says. “Everything tastes better when you can taste the time and love that went into it. My favorite lasagna is always made with fresh pasta sheets; I like to keep the layers thin, so the pasta doesn’t overpower the cheese and herbs. We use our house-made ricotta as the cheese starter, then add parmesan cheese, fresh basil, oregano, black pepper, and last but not least, some lemon zest for an extra kick of freshness. Our tomato sauce is made from confit garlic, onions, basil, chili flakes, and Italian canned tomatoes. Super simple and super delicious.”
Chef Andrew Whitney
Once you’ve got the classic preparation down, it’s time to take things in a new direction—which is what’s fueling this lasagna revival. “I’m a big fan of the lasagna trend and love seeing what chefs are doing to elevate this satisfying winter dish,” says Whitney, who serves a hearty 12-layer vegetarian lasagna at dell’anima. “Right now, we’re working on ways to elevate lasagna, while still giving customers that classic dish they crave.” At Washington, D.C.’s Masseria and Officina, Executive Chef Nick Stefanelli says that “lasagna is a dish that we always play around with on our menus, and we love finding new ways update it with interesting flavors, textures, and ingredients.” Masseria’s 7-Layer Lasagna, for example, features a goat ragu made of white wine, garlic, onions, and tomato, plus pasta sheets layered with ricotta and capretto cheese (a hard goat cheese).
Chef Nicholas Stefanelli (ph Scott Suchma)
Meanwhile, Tourondel (who serves a Lasagna alla Bolognese at Sag Pizza), notes that some chefs are even “making the pasta dough with grains or an egg-free base,” to cater to different tastes.
Sag Pizza Lasagna
Before you set off on your own lasagna exploration adventure in 2020, here’s one lighter, healthier version you can make at home, courtesy of Amity & Commerce.
Crespelle
by Chef Justin Houghtaling, Amity & Commerce At Amity & Commerce, we serve our rendition of lasagna as a 'crespelle' of layered vegetables. Instead of lasagna noodles, we use crepes, and our vegetables (eggplant, zucchini, and squash) are dipped in buttermilk, then dusted in seasoned flour before being crisped up in a pan with hot olive oil. Whipped sheep's milk ricotta adds a bit of tang, and a tomato fondue with garlic, shallot, and basil adds sweetness and acidity. We top it with parmesan and lemon-herbed breadcrumbs, and place it underneath the salamander for a crunchy, golden crust on top.
Ingredients
1 zucchini
1 yellow squash
1 Japanese Eggplant
4 Crepes
1 c. tomato sauce, reduced
1 c. sheep’s milk ricotta, whipped, seasoned with salt and pepper
½ cup buttermilk
¼ cup all-pourpose flour, well-seasoned with salt and pepper
2 tbsp. Parmesan cheese
2 tbsp. breadcrumbs
½ tsp Maldon salt
Method
Using a mandolin, slice the vegetables to ½” thickness.
Dip the vegetables in the buttermilk and then dust in the flour. Shake off the excess flour, and lightly fry in a wide pan with hot olive oil. Drain the vegetables onto a towel to degrease.
Cut out the crepes in the shape of a 2” deep, 6 x4” cocotte.
Add ¼ cup of the tomato sauce to the bottom of the cocotte dish, spreading evenly. Next add the crepe, pressing down slightly. Next add the ricotta, spreading evenly. Next add the zucchini, pressing lightly. Tap the vessel on the counter to make sure everything is settling in.
Repeat the process with the yellow squash instead of the zucchini, ending with another layer of tomato sauce on the top. Repeat the process with the eggplant.
Cover with aluminum foil and reserve for service. The order starting from the bottom should be tomato, crepe, ricotta, zucchini, tomato, crepe, ricotta, squash, tomato, crepe, ricotta, eggplant, tomato, parmesan, breadcrumb.
Place the crespelle, covered with aluminum foil, into the oven set to 400 degrees.
Bake for about 15 minutes. When fully cooked through, remove from the oven, checking the center with a cake tester to ensure the middle is hot. Add the parmesan cheese and breadcrumbs and salamander until just lightly browned. Garnish with Maldon salt and freshly cracked black pepper.
For the tomato sauce
Ingredients
1 tsp. shallot, brunoise
1 tsp. garlic, brunoise
3 tbsp. fresh basil, chiffonade
1#10 can Marinara sauce
Method
In a rondeau, add olive oil and sweat the garlic and shallot. Add the marinara and reduce to half over medium heat, stirring often to avoid sticking to the bottom.
Remove from the heat, add the basil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cool to below 40 degrees and reserve.