There are many symbolic elements that are part of the Italian celebration of New Year’s Eve, also known as San Silvestro, from the table setting to the food served to the clothes we wear. Some are superstitions, others are meant to bring luck.
To learn more about these fascinating customs, we interviewed Giorgia Fantin Borghi, one of the leading Italian etiquette experts and a true historian of Italian table setting. The granddaughter of an etiquette teacher who educated young woman before she got married in the 1950s, Giorgia carries on the bon-ton tradition of her family. She coordinates high level diplomatic and exclusive events, consults on table styling and design for companies and several media publications, and collaborates with celebrity chefs teaching workshops on table etiquette. She is also an author of two books and a host on a weekly food show A Tavola Con Marcello for Italian Rai television.
What are the traditional Italian foods that bring good luck to the New Year?
Lentils are always part of the menu. They represent money but also physical and mental sustenance, as they are rich in iron and very nutritious, and they are meant to bring abundance and wealth. Another must is the zampone, fatty pork meat that is eaten only on special occasions, and often served with the lentils. Grapes are also very important, and it is recommended to eat twelve of them, one for each month of the year; the same for pomegranate seeds, another fruit symbol for good luck and prosperity. And, of course, a bottle of bubbly and a slice of panettone or pandoro, a Northern Italian tradition. However, even the sweets in the South include candied fruits like you find in panettone, because in the past fruits were conserved as delicacies and used for festivities, another symbol of wealth.
Mise en Place (ph FT)
Can you tell us about customs at the New Year’s Eve dinner table?
While waiting for midnight, during the slow-paced dinner, a fun activity is to read the horoscope for the coming new year. Another classic is a round of tombola, a sort of Italian bingo, in particular using the Smorfia Napoletana, a Neapolitan tradition that attributes nicknames and meanings for each number picked in the game. Finally, in addition to the zampone, pigs are a big hit in New Year’s eve. They can be made of chocolate, stuffed, or used to decorate the table, and touched at midnight for good luck, even better when they hold a coin in their mouth. I personally love to gift everyone little chocolate pigs, but dates and dry figs, possibly covered in chocolate, are also appropriate. In terms of attire, red underwear is a must. Red was already worn by women during the Roman Empire as a symbol of power, fertility, and health.
Giorgia Fantin Borghi in action (via Instagram)
What about other customs that are not specifically at the dinner table?
Firecrackers, known as botti di capodanno, have long been a tradition that started with the belief that they would shoo away the evil spirits in the transition of the New Year. Another custom in Southern Italy is to throw old or broken things out of the window, which sometimes creates problems when people drink a bit too much. Kissing under the mistletoe is a romantic tradition that drives away problems and difficulties and is a symbol of constant strength. The evergreen plant grows on pine and oak trees, and there are customs on how to pick it, with a stick using only the left hand and before it reaches the floor. A couple that kisses under the mistletoe is believed to get married within the year.
What are the most common superstitions at the Italian dinner table?
Never turn the bread upside down, or spill salt or oil, it’s a sign of bad luck. They are considered primary goods, and deserve attention and care. Salt and oil should not be passed from hand to hand. That way there is no risk of having them fall. It is also important not to cross the fork and knife, as they can cause fights. I have recently seen it done in some weird American table setting guide, but it’s absolutely a no-no in etiquette. Finally, there should not be 13 dinner guests, also bad luck, as it was the number of people at the Last Supper, in which Judas betrayed Christ.
How old are these traditions? Can you tell us a little about ancient customs?
Since the Middle Ages, the table setting and food served had strong symbolism, in particular, to prove someone’s power. In fact, many important things were discussed at the table, from wars to the faith of a ruling family, and even in the theme of chivalry, food was used to create a dialogue. They used food to be considered uncommon in modern times, such as wild game, for example, sending a heron to a knight would mean they are a coward. Banquets were set where all the courses were put together as an extravagant feast, or alla francese, including warm foods and dessert. They would feature lavish dishes such as a peacock, cooked and served with all its feathers replaced, and it would make an entrance to the sound of trumpets. At the beginning of 1800, the Russian Ambassador in France introduced the courses served at table one by one, revolutionizing the table setting for years to come.
What are the latest trends for this year’s table setting?
While the Christmas table is gold, silver works perfectly for New Year’s eve. In this climate of uncertainty, many like to decorate the table with little lucky figurines, sometimes designed on the silverware, to make it more festive and to welcome the new year with good fortune.
Giorgia Fantin Borghi portrait is by Devid Rotasperti