“I’ve always loved hotel bars more than other bars—there’s just something magical about them,” says Alia Akkam, author of the new book, Behind the Bar: 50 Cocktail Recipes From the World’s Most Iconic Hotels. “All bars have the power to transport,” she continues, “but there’s something special about a hotel bar because it suggests escape and travel—even if it’s in the city where you live. They are usually elegant and glamorous, and there’s an air of mystery in these bars, a sense of intrigue that comes from mixing locals and travelers. You don’t know who anyone is—so in a way, you’re granted a reprieve.”
While Akkam’s work writing about travel, food and design topics has allowed her to experience some of the world’s greatest hotel bars, it wasn’t until she moved from New York City to Budapest in 2015 that these watering holes took on a more personal significance. “When I first arrived in Budapest, I didn’t know many people, and I didn’t feel comfortable going to a neighborhood bar on my own, as it was a bit intimidating,” she remembers. “So I would often spend time at the bar at the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest, which is not only lovely and welcoming, but draws a mix of people. I felt at home there.”
Inspired by her experience, Akkam set out to pay tribute to the special appeal of hotel bars. Released this fall, her book features stories and drink recipes from a mix of classic, emerging and under-the-radar spots, ranging from the luxurious to more affordable, in destinations from New Orleans to Namibia—and, of course, Italy. While the selection is diverse, each pick “symbolizes the city they are in and evokes the spirit of place,” she notes.
By telling the stories of these bars—and their drinks–Akkam hopes to inspire readers to visit some of them when they can, and either stay at the hotels or just go by for a drink. Until that day when we can safely travel, however, Akkam considers the book “a time capsule. It’s a look at how things were, and a way to be transported to a place you can’t get to now, but will get to in the future. As soon as I can travel again, these are the rooms I want to be in.”
We asked Akkam for her thoughts on the book’s two featured Italian hotel bars, and persuaded each bar to give us a special drink recipe—different from what’s featured in the book—that’s perfect to the holidays.
The Gritti Palace, a Luxury Collection Hotel
“It’s not a trip to Venice until you pop in to this hotel bar,” says Akkam, citing its incredible Grand Canal views from the terrace as one of the highlights. In her book, Akkam featured Bar Longhi’s take on the Bellini, because “even though this isn’t where the Bellini originated, that drink is a symbol of Venice—so if you are sitting on this outdoor terrace, looking at the city, that what you want to be drinking.” Before leaving the hotel, Akkam recommends wandering through the lobby, where “the grand mix of mirrors, art, books and furniture feels decidedly Venetian.”
Bar Longhi
The Drink: Canaletto
Described by Bar Manager Cristiano Luciano as having “flavors and colors that reflect the autumn season,” the signature Canaletto is the bar’s winter version of the Bellini, and is only served in the colder months. It’s lovely color, bubbly texture and hint of flavors like cinnamon make it a great choice for your at-home holiday celebrations, too.
Canaletto (ph credit Maurizio Figuccio)
The Recipe:
About 12 raspberries per portion
Cloves
Fresh lemon
Half a coffee spoon of cinnamon
1 oz Grand Marnier
Prosecco
Place raspberries, a few cloves, the cinnamon and a touch of fresh lemon in a blender and puree for about 30 seconds. Fill a quarter of a chilled Prosecco glass with the spiced raspberry mixture, add about 3/4 of an ounce of Grand Marnier liqueur and top with Prosecco. Stir and serve.
Hotel de Russie
The Bar: Stravinskij Bar
“I’m not usually an outdoor bar person, because I am so into the history and design of a space, but this garden bar changed my whole perception of outdoor dining,” admits Akkam. “It’s a fairytale, an oasis in the middle of Rome.” If you’re able to stay at the hotel, Akkam also suggests taking a dip in the blue-tiled Jacuzzi in the wellness area, and enjoying an early breakfast in the garden—when “it’s a more hushed contrast to the aperitivo hour,” when drinks like the Apricot Sour (which is featured in the book) are flowing.
Stravinskij Bar (ph credit Hotel Photography srl)
The Drink: Stravinskij Bloody Mary
“Synonymous with the morning after the night before, the Bloody Mary is the ideal drink to have at our bar, especially in order to recover from (quite heavy) Christmas or New Year’s meals,” says Paolo Dianini, Bar Manager at Stravinskij Bar. “It’s a timeless drink, the perfect pick-me-up, the classic reviver. And its red color is festive, too.” The drink is such as staple at the bar that it offers four different versions, including a Carrot Mary, Bloody Purple and Water Bloody Melon. It’s the signature Stravinskij Bloody Mary, though, that contains “a secret spice mix” that the bar won’t reveal.
Stravinskij Bloody Mary (ph credit Hotel Photography srl)
The Recipe:
Tomato juice
Vodka
Fresh lime
Tabasco
Worcestershire sauce
Salt and pepper
Pour tomato juice and freshly squeezed lime into a shaker, then add a few drops of Tabasco and Worcestershire sauce, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Mix the ingredients in the shaker with a bar spoon. Add a jigger of vodka and some ice cubes directly into the shaker. Mix with the throwing technique (pouring from one part of the shaker to the another several times). Open the shaker, block the ice cubes with a strainer and pour into a tall tumbler.