The U.S. is currently the number one consumer of wine in the world, and also produces wine in all 50 of its states. But while the shelves of the city wine shops are certainly stocked with bottles from around the world, most Americans still gravitate towards better-known varieties such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Merlot—something that some winemakers around the country are trying to change by growing unique varietals indigenous to Italy.
Some of these winemakers began focusing on Italian varietals because of a connection to the country or as an homage to their Italian heritage; others like the challenge that growing these grapes presents. Either way, it’s now not so unusual to find a grape such as Sangiovese—native to central Italy—growing in vineyards in the U.S. Here, we spotlight four vineyards where you’ll find a piece of Italy on the vines.
Giornata Wines
Giornata
Paso Robles, California, may be best known for varietals like Zinfandel and Syrah, but Brian Terrizzi from Giornata is going his own way, delving into Italian grapes thanks to both his family’s Sicilian heritage and his own passion. “We have a pretty wide range of Italian grape varieties planted, including Nebbiolo, Barbera, Ribolla Gialla and Friulano from the north, Sangiovese and Vermentino from central Italy, and Aglianico, Fiano and Falanghina from the south,” he says. Terrizzi (who spent a harvest learning from Paolo DiMarchi at Isole e Olena in Tuscany, and has taken many subsequent research trips to Italy) explains that Giornata strives for balance and variety correctness with every wine they produce, and likes to “focus on pure flavors,” which means fermenting with indigenous yeast and without chemical additives. “Many of our wines have similarities to their Italian counterparts, so we like to say we have a foot in Italy and another in California,” he laughs. And while “it’s a lot of work to educate consumers about Italian grape varieties,” he adds, “luckily, after close to 15 years, we have found a good following for what we do.” Next up for Terrizzi: playing around with a little plot of Nerello Mascalese.
Nebbiolo at Tanjuli Winery
Tanjuli
Located in Washington State, which is primarily known for producing Cabernet Sauvignons and Syrahs, Tanjui is helmed by proprietor Tom Campbell, who moved toward growing European varietals because he was looking for a challenge. Drawing from his 40 years of experience, Campbell is now making wines using Italian grapes like Nebbiolo, Sagrantino, and Aglianico, among others. “I love the challenge of growing new varieties, and Nebbiolo is challenging just like Pinot Noir can be—it has a different growing profile and seeks perfect conditions. It’s exciting,” Campbell explains. When it came to Sagrantino, he adds, “I fell in love with it when I had it in a restaurant, so once I found a source for the plant material I needed, I started to grow it.” Campbell also explains that while some customers may find it hard to pronounce the names of some of the wines he makes, they are drawn to the blends once they taste them, and are excited to try something different.
Idiot's Gorge Inter Row Growth
Idiot’s Grace
This Oregon winery is set in the Columbia Gorge AVA (American Viticultural Area), one of the newest AVAs in the state, and only produces about 2000 cases a year, most of which is sold through the tasting room. As of yet, the Idiot’s Grace team hasn’t hitched its wagon to one particular variety; instead, they are planting a host of Italian varietals and other grapes—21 in all—and are looking to see what fits their terroir perfectly. So far, they have planted Barbera, Dolcetto, Aglianico, Primitivo, Sangiovese, and a little Fiano and Falanghina, according to Trevor Hertrich, director of the winery. “The Gorge is such a new area that there is no precedent for what to grow, such as in other areas of Oregon where Pinot Noir and Gris reign supreme,” Hertich explains. “Curious consumers think it’s really exciting (to see other varietals),” he says—but adds that they mostly grow what they want to drink themselves.
Raffaldini Vines
Raffaldini
Jay Raffaldini explains that his eponymous North Carolina winery uses Italian indigenous grapes both because of his family’s heritage—they’re originally form Mantua and Chieti—and because “it grows well in my wine region.” In addition to making wines from Sagrantino, Montepulciano, Sangiovese, Vermentino and Trebbiano grapes, the winery celebrates its Italian ties by hosting regular Italian festas that feature vendors and participants from around the region, and has also embraced the Appassimento drying process used to make Amarone. “Customers like new experiences such as the Appassimento, which furthers the immersive experience,” Raffaldini notes.