We've seen them on the counters at specialty shops and supermarkets for quite some time now, but the highlight season for asparagus? April and May. One of the most popular vegetables in Italy and the world over, it can be served as a side dish or made with eggs – even added to the most delicious savory pies for added flavor. Asparagus is undoubtedly one of the gastronomic ‘stars’ of Italian cuisine – with every variety of asparagus and dishes featuring their own taste, a particular cooking method and then there’s our very own ‘al bacio’ style of making them. So – let’s discover the world of Italian asparagus!
Asparagus as an aphrodisiac?
First of all, it’s important to understand the distinction of asparagus as the stem of the plant; it’s the plant itseld! Asparagus is actually the young stem of Asparagus officinalis or Asparagus acutifolius plant – sometimes (innappropriately) referred to as ‘asparagiaia’ in Italian, a term that in reality refers to the whole process of cultivation which, if not harvested, will become a new stem. The term 'asparagus' derives from its Greek parent term of 'aspharagos,’ a word itself derived from from the Persian 'asparag,’ meaning 'sprout' in English. Already an ingredient in recipes of Roman times, Cato the Elder praised the characteristics of asparagus and described in detail how to cultivate it. However, it was only in the 16th century that its cultivation began in Italy and France. Historically, asparagus was considered beneficial for its ‘aphrodisiac properties’ due to its phallic shape, a fact once confirmed by the Salerno Medical School. For this same reason, in royal courts of the Renaissance period, asparagus held an equally ‘erotic’ symbolism; because of its high content in potassium and vitamin E (even science backs this up), asparagus is a traditionally served at wedding dinners as a kind of ‘good luck’ food – especially in Bassano del Grappa. Even in France, asparagus made its first appearance in some of the country’s best recipes centuries ago. In fact, Louis XIV was so fond of it that he had an obelisk erected in Versailles in honor of the gardener who was able to cultivate it year round. It’s also said that Napoleon III considered them so indispensable to his gallant personal encounters that he postponed any ‘amorous meeting’ in their absence.
Umbrian delights
The first type of asparagus we’ll address is the variety found in the wild. This is Asparagus acutifolius, or wild asparagus. It’s easily recognizable thanks to its thorny, tall, thin and brownish-green leaves and stems – a species widespread in the Central-South region of Italy. But be careful! Only the leaves and the parts of the stem that you can easily break with your hands can be used in the kitchen. This variety of the vegetable stand outs for its stronger and markedly aromatic flavor – a real delight in the harvesting season, among the (clean) gravel and in the woods. In Umbrian cuisine, wild asparagus is the ingredient of the beloved local dish Strangozzi with Asparagus – made by cooking the tips in extra virgin olive oil with garlic and a little cooking water. Then there’s the ‘red’ version of the recipe, which involves the addition of tomato sauce. Wild asparagus is also eaten in omelettes or with scrambled eggs in this area, as well. In Abruzzo, wild asparagus goes well with traditional ‘sagnitelle,’ a pasta variety similar to pappardelle, while in Lazio, they prefer it in vegetable soups. In Salento, on the other hand, wild asparagus is combined with anchovies, or cooked in oil – a trend also present in Calabria. Meanwhile, in Sicily, this kind of asparagus becomes the star ingredient of excellent first courses, combined with shallots or spring onions and peppery pecorino cheese, like the typical recipe from the Sicilian Mountains. Another excellent dish with wild asparagus? The Sardinian recipe for Gnocchetti with Grandula (the island’s version of ‘guanciale’) – of course, featuring wild asparagus. This is an ingredient that can also be used in risotto recipes or perhaps in a refined asparagus and shrimp salad!
The best asparagus for boiling
The nature of the most commonly cultivated asparagus – belonging to the species Asparagus officinalis – is different from wild asparagus in a variety of ways. First off, this species of asparagus can be recognized by its characteristically shorter and stockier stems – plus it has no thorns. This variety of the plant is endowed with rhizomes, or stems that grow underground forming a lattice-shape, from which the stems grow. Green asparagus is generally grown in the Central-South of Italy in areas near the sea, but it’s also grown in Emilia-Romagna – particularly in Altedo, Bologna, with its verified local ‘IGP’ product variety. Great in risotto recipes. Or with arancini (Italian rice ‘croquettes’) – and especially made as a cream. When it comes to green asparagus in Italy, the stalk is not thrown away; instead, we use every bit for different recipes! We remove the lower part and boil it in a tall pot almost completely full of water (ideally using an Italian kitchen tool meant for an occasion like this, to cook asparagus, called an ‘asparagiera’). The tips of the asparagus should be left out at first so that they are only steamed for 5-7 minutes. Prepared this way, asparagus can be more easily cut, sliced or chopped for excellent first courses, or they can be left whole – to enjoy as a side dish. Otherwise, brown them over low heat on the stove. ‘Violetto di Albenga’ asparagus is the only one of its kind – in the world Another celebrity among asparagus varieties is the ‘Violetto di Albenga’: an Asparagus officinalis species typical of a small area in Liguria, the headquarters of Slow Food. Its strange color does not depend on the cultivation technique, instead, the purple hue is linked to its genetic heritage, boasting 40 chromosomes (instead of the usual 20 for all other asparagus varieties). This is a unique variety that grows only in the alluvial soils of the Albenga Plain, thanks to its deep sandy and silty layer of soil and the area’s particular microclimate. In the last hundred years, however, cultivation of this particular variety has suffered a worrying contraction of production; in the '30s, there were more than 300 hectares where it was cultivated; 143 in the '70s; 10 at the beginning of 2000. Fortunately, a recent gradual rediscovery has been underway – thanks in part to recipes that feature unparallel flavor with the particularly delicate flavor and non-fibrous texture of this version of asparagus. ‘Violetto di Albenga’ asparagus is usually boiled and simply seasoned with extra virgin olive oil – perhaps alongside fish-based main courses.
Underground in Valpadana
Another variety to consider is white asparagus. This is the typical species of the Po’ Valley and its primary areas of cultivation are Bassano del Grappa in Vicenza, Cantello in Varese, Tavagnacco in Udine, Zambana in Trento, Badoere di Morgagno in Treviso, Cimadolmo in Treviso and finally, in the well-known ‘asparagus area’ of Conche – near Codevigo in the province of Padua. The color comes from its very particular cultivation technique: the white asparagus stem is grown and developed underground, thus remaining white and taking on its characteristically sweet taste. "The discovery of white asparagus was completely accidental,” writes Antonio Celotto in “L'asparago di Bassano.” He continues, "On an unspecified date, it seems that in the sixteenth century, a violent hailstorm would have ruined the aerial part of the plant; the farmer then tried to recover what remained underground of the asparagus, i.e. the white part. He noticed that it was good and since then, he began to pick the asparagus before it came out of the ground.”
That one variety from Brianza…
Last (but definitely not least): pink asparagus! From Mezzago in Monza-Brianza (in Northern Italy) is a variety that is actually very similar to white asparagus. The color comes from the soil it grows in – a soil with a clay consistency and a particularly high presence of ferrous minerals. Its cultivation began at the beginning of the 20th century – reaching its peak in the 1930s – at the same time that it came to markets in Milan. The decline of this asparagus variety began around 1970 and at the end of the nineties, there were very few cultivated fields. Until 2000 – also thanks in part to the Deco brand – an important relaunch operation began.