On your calendar, mark Tuesday, October 27th, designated "Parmigiano Reggiano Day" by The Consortium of Parmigiano Reggiano. This treasured cheese has been exclusively produced in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy for more than nine centuries. It's made with just three natural ingredients (milk, salt, rennet) using traditional artisanal techniques. Parmigiano Reggiano earned Protected Designation of Origin status by the EU for maintaining its authenticity and is the best-selling PDO product with 3.6 million wheels crafted in 2018.
Yet, this special day celebrating the "King of Cheese" originated not because of its worldwide palate-pleasing qualities but in response to the two earthquakes hitting its area of origin in May 2012. The devastation was profound, displacing tens of thousands of residents, collapsing factories, and massively damaging historical churches, bell towers, and other landmarks. Within the region resides the provinces of Modena, which gifts us with the delicacy Aceto Balsamico di Modena and Bologna, home to the Italian cold cut mortadella. These culinary gems were also significantly impacted, but none more so than Parmigiano Reggiano.
The maturation process for Parmigiano Reggiano requires a minimum of 12 months and can last up to 40 months or more. Created into cheese wheels weighing about 85 pounds each, the Parmigiano Reggiano is stacked on high shelves in humidity-controlled warehouses as they age. These shelves came tumbling down during the quakes, and in its aftermath, 360,000 wheels were damaged.
It was Modena native and renowned Chef Massimo Bottura, who The Consortium turned to for an outsized solution to help save the cheese. Bottura's three-Michelin starred Osteria Francescana, named the World's Top Restaurant in 2018 and 2016 by the prestigious San Pellegrino ranking (now in its Hall of Fame) is located in his hometown near the quake's epicenter. "For lunch, the restaurant was fully booked. There was a very strong shake. Everyone was running out. The street was going like a wave. It was a crazy moment," recalls Bottura in the Netflix series Chef's Table. Bottura loves Parmigiano Reggiano and features it as a primary ingredient in his signature dishes such as Le 5 Stagionature di Parmigiano, and Tortellini alla Crema di Parmigiano.
Years of cheese production were lost during that moment, about $50 million worth, reported the New York Times, potentially threatening the livelihood of cheesemakers whose families produced this product for generations. Bottura's response to the situation was a single recipe: Riso cacio e pepe. He invited the world through social media and online outlets to cook this new dish along with him launching "Parmigiano Reggiano Day" eight years ago, October 27th.
The recipe Bottura developed is a modern riff on the classic Italian cacio e pepe pasta honoring the region's flavors. Lots of cheese is required for making the Parmigiano Reggiano broth, which is chilled in the refrigerator overnight where it separates into three layers – the top a Parmigiano cream, the middle a broth and protein solids at the bottom. The rice is cooked in the broth and mixed with the reserved Parmigiano cream. The result "brings out the wonderful sensorial experiences of this exceptional product," describes Bottura during a video promoting the evening.
With 40,000 people worldwide participating in the virtual inaugural event, all 360,000 wheels sold out, and all jobs were saved. "That was a recipe as a social gesture," he says. This annual celebration continues throughout Italy, which has grown among their restaurant community with more than 400 eateries dedicating their menus to this special night.*
While "Parmigiano Reggiano Day" isn't as widespread in the U.S., it may become a thing among foodies here someday soon. Sales of Parmigiano Reggiano jumped 15% in 2018 when a whopping 10,439 tons were shipped to American shores. Although cheaper "parmesan" imposters exist, authentic Parmigiano is distinguished by a dotted inscription on the cheese rinds.
Whether you prefer a simple aperitivo, cooking a recipe, or take-out, hunker down with the "King of Cheese" on the evening of the 27th. Your "social gesture" will help support the 50,000 workers involved with making this essential ingredient.
*Due to the pandemic, restaurants in Italy will not be hosting in-house dinners this year on "Parmigiano Reggiano Day."