When in Rome, eat pizza tonda. Paper-thin and perfectly sauced and cheesed, this “round” delight is in a pizza category of its own. I first experienced what is considered to be one of Rome’s “best in class” pizze tonde at Da Remo, a no-frills, local institution tucked a few blocks in from the Tiber River on a pleasantly vibrant corner in Testaccio. I heard that their pizza was worth the 40-minute trek, but I’m one of those try-it-to-believe-it people who had to experience it before affirming any of the hype. Already somewhat of a fish out of water, I had to abandon my American-born handheld slice techniques in favor of the Italian-style fork and knife method. Da Remo supplied a much-needed and appreciated, unusually sharp knife that elicited a surge of confidence in their pizza before I even laid my eyes on it.
Fiori di Zucca and Margherita pizzas at Da Remo in Testaccio.
Thanks to the thinness of the crust and the high oven temperature used during baking, my Margherita pizza tonda was delivered within minutes. I took a moment to marvel at its rustic beauty, imperfectly shaped and gloriously different than any pizza I had eaten in America. The sauce and cheese flowed into one another, a stark differential from the socially distanced dollops of cheese on sauce that I formerly associated with Margherita pizza. The overtly charred, thin-crust was surprisingly sturdy, each bite yielding an audible crackle. A newfound, underdeveloped pizza cutting muscle meant my arm would fatigue halfway through, so with a quick glance to see who was watching I folded the remaining half in half and finished it like a true New Jerseyean.
Since we’re not in Rome, and making pizza tonda at home would be a serious undertaking, we’ve rounded up some pizzerias where you can get your paper-thin pizza fix in NYC.
Zucchini Pizza at Marta
Marta
Set inside of The Redbury New York hotel, just north of Madison Square Park, Marta is Union Square Hospitality’s answer to Roman-style pizza. After a pandemic-related closure, Chef John Poiarkoff and team are back in action cranking out “crackly-crusted” pies from a wood-burning oven, along with calzones and a slew of protein and vegetable-heavy dishes. Traditionalists can’t go wrong with the Margherita, and more adventurous palates will be pleased by the Zucchini, a savory and seasonal pizza topped with zucchini, fresh mozzarella, anchovies and black pepper. Added bonus: Grab a $10 Slushie Cocktail, Spritz, or glass of rosé during their Happy Hour, which goes from 5-6 pm every Monday through Friday.
Buffalina Pizza at Gnocco.
Gnocco
Gianluca Owner and Executive Chef Gian Luca Giovanetti's Gnocco has been an East Village mainstay since 2000. After realizing the demand for pizza, he adapted his restaurant’s concept by installing a wood and gas pizza oven and has been slinging super-thin-crust Roman-style pizza ever since. In true Italian form, Gnocco’s 12-inch, individual pizzas are made with imported flour, tomatoes, cheeses, and extra virgin olive oil. An added bonus: Gnocco doubles as a co-working space, offering free wifi all day in their garden. Pizza and productivity make a perfect pair!
Meatlovers Pizza at Vezzo.
Vezzo
Founded in 1999, Antonio Gomez and friend and business partner Jonathan Tweedy’s Gruppo family of pizza restaurants are renowned for their ultra-thin crust pizzas. Vezzo, along with sister restaurants Posto, Spunto, Tappo, and Brado offer robust menus consisting of high-quality, affordable, relaxed Italian cuisine, as well as beer and wine. They have been using the same pizza dough recipe and ingredients for the last 20 years. It's double-proofed for optimal digestibility. Head to Murray Hill to try one of Vezzo’s fan favorites, The Meatlovers, topped with marinara sauce and cheese, pepperoni, hot Italian sausage, and sweet Italian sausage.
Joe & Pat’s
After more than 60 years of success on Staten Island, owners of cult-favorite Joe and Pat’s brought their iconic pizza across the river with a sleeker, more contemporary dining experience at their East Village outpost. The menu is packed with non-pizza options, but their ultra-thin crust pies are their claim to fame. For an Italian-American-inspired, tie-dyed-looking treat, try their Vodka Pie.