Zuppa inglese is an old classic in the Italian tradition, a dessert that our grandmothers made. It can be a little hard to find these days and is mainly seen in certain historic restaurants. We tasted it in a little corner of Piacenza province, perched on the slopes of the Val Tidone at the Ristorante San Giorgio.
The real history of zuppa inglese
Nobody is certain of its origin, but the two most credible versions are the Emilian one – which says that zuppa inglese is an invention of the Este Court and an interpretation of the English trifle – and the story that it was invented by an English governess in Florence. In his Bible of Italian cooking, Pellegrino Artusi tells us to alternate savoiardi soaked in rose petal liqueur or the spiced liqueur Alchermes, then cover them in layers of firm custard. The master’s touch is brushing the dish with apricot or peach preserves. Many people make it in a glass dish so people can see the layers and the lively red color of the alchermes, but the traditional recipe says to put it in a fluted mold.
A trattoria that is still authentic
Tradition reigns supreme at the Ristorante San Giorgio, including on the dessert menu, which is their crown jewel. “We make everything here” could be this trattoria’s slogan. The staff lives by word of mouth, whispered advice between friends and enthusiasts who exchange precious and truthful bits of wisdom. In summer, you can eat in the open air under the portico, but in winter you stay warm by the stove. The place is a jubilee of appetizers, fresh pastas, fried gnocchi, excellent salamis, ingredients from the forests and gardens, pumpkins and mushrooms in season, and desserts made strictly by hand. Fill your glass with a good Gutturnio, Ortrugo or Malvasia, because the restaurateurs here are also vintners and farmers.
Cristina Scarabelli, who has taken the helm, is the fourth generation of a country family that produces and cooks local specialties like wine and sausages. The staff will be proud to show you what they have made if you ask to see the wine cellar.
The perfect proportion for zuppa inglese
Their recipe for zuppa inglese is straightforward: an assembly of sponge cake and in the perfect 60/40 proportion.
Start by dipping the sponge cake in alchermes diluted with water. In a fluted terrine, lay down a layer of wet sponge cake, then use a pastry bag to add a layer of custard, then another layer of sponge cake, also soaked in alchermes. Top it with a final layer of chocolate custard.