Once characterized by a quantity over quality approach, the wines of Puglia today have all the credentials to warrant flattery and praise – especially the rosés, which are among the best in Italy. It's no coincidence that Italy's first national rosé wine, the Five Roses by Leone de Castris, was bottled here as early as 1943.
This aptitude is due to some stellar red grape varieties, such as the Primitivo and Negroamaro. In recent years, their prestige has extended to varieties that have been rediscovered and enhanced, such as Nero di Troia, Bombino Nero, Malvasia Nera, Susumaniello, and Ottavianello.
The most successful red, even abroad, is undoubtedly the Primitivo: the one from the area of Manduria, located on the Ionian Sea in the province of Taranto, is more powerful and structured than those produced in Gioia del Colle, a cooler region further north in the province of Bari that's more inland.
The best whites are produced, however, in north and central Puglia, with the Bombino Bianco, Verdeca, and Bianco di Alessano grapes. The San Severo area offers interesting sparkling wines made via the metodo classico, or classic Champagne method. To end on a sweet note, the excellent Moscato di Trani or the Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale are worth uncorking.
Here are some wines of Puglia to keep an eye out for – whether you're in town and seeking a wine to sip alongside all the good eats or are eager to add a few bottles to your collection at home.
1. Castello Monaci, Salice Salentino Aiace Riserva, 2017
Made from grapes harvested in a sapling vineyard, this Negroamaro contains a touch of Malvasia Nera. It packs the aromas of small red fruits and spices while being structured and velvety on the palate. Pair it with meatballs in red sauce. website
2. Varvaglione 1921, Fiano del Salento Margrande 2019
This wine's fruity and floral aromas give way to a fresh flavor that strikes a beautiful balance between acidity and sweetness. Enjoy it alongside baked sea bass. website
3. Ognissole - Cefalicchio Estate, Castel del Monte Nero di Troia, Romanesque 2015
This wine is warm, like its homeland, with aromas of red fruits in jam, spices, and medicinal herbs. It expresses all the characteristics of the Nero di Troia grape thanks to its natural cultivation and winemaking systems. Have it with a stew. website
4. Garofano Vineyards and Cellars, Girofle 2019
This is one of the finest examples of the Negroamaro grape's potential when vinified as a rosé. It has freshness, minerality, and character with aromas of small fruit and Mediterranean scrub, resulting in irresistible drinkability. Sip it with fish soup. website
5. Polvanera, Gioia del Colle Primitivo 14 2017
From one of the companies that best represents Primitivo di Gioia del Colle, this organic red has both fruity and balsamic notes. Its alcohol content is balanced by freshness and easy drinkability. It's a great aperitivo wine. website
Cover photo: Wine harvesting in Salento area, near Manduria, Apulia. Apulian grapes are one of the best in Italy for the production of wines like Primitivo, Negroamaro, and Salice Salentino (Credit: Getty Images)
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