The classic wines of Emilia-Romagna are like its inhabitants: bubbly and full of panache. Sparkling wine production is strong, especially those from Piacentino made with the white Ortrugo and Malvasia grapes and the red Gutturnio. The Modenese sparklers, made with Lambrusco, are experiencing a period of success, thanks to the versions of the Sorbara type that are refermented in the bottle. All have a low alcohol content and marked drinkability and go well with the excellent local cured meats.
Several wineries in the Colli Piacentini, located on the region's western side, are dedicated to natural wine production. They're enjoying great success and appearing on the wine lists of some of the world's best restaurants. The most interesting white grape cultivated in the Colli Bolognesi, the hills around Bologna, is the Pignoletto, recently renamed Grechetto Gentile. It makes stellar shows frizzante- and spumante-style wines. In Romagna, the white grape Albana prevails, both in dry and sweet versions, including a macerated versions of the former.
Barbera yields some interesting still reds as does Sangiovese, the grape associated with Chianti in Tuscany. Production of the grape focuses on freshness and drinkability, and the results are excellent.
A special mention goes to the small production of Santi del Piacentino wines. They're little known outside the territory but worth tasting.
So on that note, here are five excellent wines of Emilia-Romagna.
1. La Stoppa Ageno 2019
The most iconic orange of the Colli Piacentini, it's made from a mix of Malvasia di Candia, Ortrugo, and Trebbiano. It's produced from old vines and macerated on the skins for about a month. Fresh, savory, and with complex aromas, it makes a simple snack of bread, butter, and anchovies unforgettable. website
2. San Vito Vineyard C.B. Sparkling Pignoletto Su Lies 2018
Lively, savory, and graceful, this bubbly is refermented in the bottle. It should be consumed cloudy and paired with savory vegetable pies like scarpazzone. website
3. Bergianti St. Vincent 2019
This manual Lambrusco di Sorbara has aromas of raspberry and an acid vein that makes it vibrant. It's excellent with salumi and gnocco fritto, a giant fried bread. website
4. Gallegati Romagna Sangiovese Brisighella 2018
This wine is a testament to the new productive course of the denomination. It's agile and juicy, with aromas of red fruits and flowers, and perfect with tagliatelle al ragù. website
5. Fattoria Zerbina Albana Passito Scaccomatto 2016
One of the region's most celebrated sweet wines, the passito has aromas of candied fruit and
citrus zest. Its flavor and enveloping, never cloying. Have it with fresh fruit tart and pastries. website
Cover photo: The rows of red vineyards of the famous sparkling wine Lambrusco in autumn, Cover Photo: Getty Images/Francesco Riccardo Iacomino