When it comes to Eggplant Parmigiana, the ancestor of what the rest of the world calls “eggplant parm,” three regions claim ownership: Sicily, Emilia-Romagna, and Campania. Examining the different theories would require a small historical-linguistic treatise.
History, to begin with, leans toward Sicily. The Arabs introduced the eggplant to the island, where today, most of Italy's eggplant is cultivated. However, some posit that the dish first originated in Campania, where one of the best-known eggpalnt varieties, the Violetta di Napoli, is grown.
The recipe for Parmigiana, then, was formulated for the first time in the mid-18th century by Vincenzo Corrado, a chef who cooked for Neapolitan aristocracy. In 1839, he attributed the dish to Ippolito Cavalcanti, a writer and cook from Campania.
The linguistic approach, on the other hand, presents a toss-up between Parma and Sicily. Several etymological sources claim that the dish's name indicates a typical custom of Parma and/or the use of Parmigiano. On the other hand, the term may derive from the Sicilian word Parmiciana, which refers to a shutter made of slightly overlapping wooden strips, similar to how one arranges the eggplant in the baking dish. In fact, it is more correct to use the recipe as eggplant parmiciana (not as eggplant parmigiana), to allude to the layered vegetables.
Whatever the origin, however, an integral part of the recipe is Parmigiano, which perhaps might have been added later to replace Pecorino. Mozzarella from Campania, is also fundamental as it goes well with eggplant, which abounds in Sicilian cuisine. Naturally, the recipe has undergone dozens of variations that exceed its four cornerstones (eggplant, tomato, mozzarella, and Parmigiano). Some add hard-boiled eggs, others a pinch of bitter cocoa. There are those who prefer onion and garlic in the sauce, those who flour the eggplant before frying, and those who do not. And, as is often the case in Italy, every family believes it holds the truest recipe.
Below you'll find a translation of the recipe that appeared in our print Italian edition this summer along with a video recipe and, simply because it's summer, 20 recipes starring eggplant.
Cover photo: Riccardo Lettieri, styling: Beatrice Prada