Forget cappuccino and the croissant-like brioche/cornetto. In Sicily, locals start their summer days on a sweet and refreshing note, breakfasting on granita câ brioscia, or granita with brioche.
Granita for breakfast
A Sicilian specialty, granita is a cold, sweet treat made from water, sugar, and fruit that is never completely frozen. It's mixed continuously to obtain a texture that is simultaneously grainy and creamy. The granita was originally coupled with a crispy bread that was eventually swapped for the Sicilian brioscia, a brioche made with a leavened egg-based dough flavored with vanilla or citrus. Characterized by textured surface and unique shape, the brioscia actually resembles a hair bun. Its hemispherical base is topped with what is called the tuppu, which is derived from the French word toupee.
The brioche, which is served warm, is meant to be dipped into the granita. As for the granita flavors, there’s something for everyone, and they even vary depending on the city. Lemon, almond, coffee, and chocolate are usually sure bets, but pistachio, strawberry, and mulberry are also delicious.
Coffee granita from Messina
Messina's coffee-flavored granita was recognized as a traditional local product and granted what is known as a “Denominazione Comunale” or “De.Co.” label – it's traditionally served in a classic glass cup alongside a warm brioche.
If you’re passing through Messina, make sure to ask for a mezza con panna, the local term used to indicate a coffee granita with whipped cream. You can then decide whether to mix the whipped cream into the granita or eat it separately.
From the Greeks to the Arabs
Following a tradition started by the Greeks and continued by the Romans, the snow collected on Mount Etna during the winter was stored in what were known as niviere to freeze. In the summer, the ice that had formed was shaved and covered in fruit-flavored and floral syrups, a recipe that still lives on in a Roman specialty known as grattachecca.
Later on, with the arrival of the Arabs, the island was introduced to sherbet, an iced beverage flavored with fruit juices. During the 16th century, the sherbet recipe was considerably improved due to the discovery of how snow combined with sea salt could be used as a refrigerant. The mixture would be placed inside a small “well” made from a wooden vat with a zinc bucket inside. The box was outfitted with a crank, the rotating movement of a few blades inside prevented large ice crystals from forming when the mixture froze.