Tortellini, tiny hat-shaped bundles of filled pasta, are one of the most iconic and beloved dishes of the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy. They are particularly associated with the provinces of Bologna and Modena; each has claimed for centuries that they originated the dish and that their version reigns supreme. There are many differences between the tortellini of these two provinces, in fillings and even in how they are made. For example, in Bologna, they are folded around the pinky, while in Modena they are folded around the tip of the index finger.
The word tortellini comes from the Italian torta, cake. The basic shape of this stuffed pasta comes in various sizes—Tortellini, the smallest, to medium-sized tortelli, to tortelloni, the largest. Tortellini are made with 00 flour, eggs, and a bit of water, rolled very thin, cut into squares, filled, and carefully folded to create a pointed ring. They are traditionally filled with ground pork and chicken breast mixed with finely chopped Prosciutto, Parmigiano Reggiano, and nutmeg. However, there are several classic variations, including one which substitutes mortadella for the prosciutto. There are also many cheese versions, especially ricotta and spinach filling, which have become extremely popular both in Italy and worldwide. Tortellini are sold ready-made in gourmet shops throughout Emilia-Romagna. Some shopkeepers encourage patrons to taste the tortellini right on the spot, unboiled because the traditional fillings—mortadella or prosciutto and Parmigiano-- are all safe to eat raw. In days gone by, tortellini were considered one of the first things a homemaker must learn to cook. Today, while strolling the pasta shops of Bologna, you’ll find whimsical signs saying, “Tortellini so good you can fool your husband into thinking they’re homemade!”
Tortellini are traditionally eaten in a rich capon broth. Tortellini in brodo is a must on every Emilia-Romagna family table for Christmas dinner and often served on New Year’s Eve as well. In Italy, tortellini are so associated with this preparation that they are nicknamed re delle minestre, “king of soups.” It’s thought that only in broth can the exquisite filling be fully appreciated. For centuries senior citizens would add half a glass of red wine right at the table to their tortellini in brodo. Not only was it considered a sort of health tonic for the elderly, but it was thought to cut the fat in the broth, making it easier to digest.
Tortellini: History
Tortellini have been around since the Middle Ages, with written documents referring to them dating to the early 12th century. There are many legends of their origin. The province of Modena claims that tortellini were created there after a local innkeeper sneaked a peek through her door’s keyhole and spotted the navel of Renaissance beauty Lucrezia Borgia. Bologna, which since ancient times has had a rivalry with nearby Modena, has an even more fanciful claim, believing tortellini were invented there and modeled after the navel of Venus, the goddess of love.
Bologna is home to the Dotta Confraternita Del Tortellino, “Learned Order of the Tortellino” (singular of tortellini), an organization founded in 1965 and dedicated to the preservation of this dish in its most traditional form—meat filling served in meat broth. Italians take their tortellini very seriously and, on December 7, 1974, the group, along with the Italian Culinary Academy formally registered an official recipe for tortellini, which includes exactly how thin the pasta dough should be (6 to 10 mm) and the precise acceptable weight of each filled tortellino (5 grams). To give an idea of how small each tortellino is supposed to be, note that tradition dictates that seven unboiled tortellini should be able to fit on a tablespoon!
A yearly tortellini festival, Sagra del Tortellino, with costumed characters re-enacting the legendary creation of tortellini, takes place every September in the town of Castelfranco Emilia, midway between Bologna and Modena. Tortellini are so internationally popular that they have even been giving their own food holiday: February 13th is National Tortellini Day.
Tortellini: Variations
Today, you can find tortellini in every part of the world, especially where Italian immigrants have settled. In Italy, meat tortellini are traditionally served in broth, but they are enjoyed with other toppings, too: cheese sauce, cream sauce, pesto or tomato sauce. There are also cheese versions of tortellini.
Tortellini are also eaten for dessert! Filled with pastry cream, fried, and served coated in powdered sugar sweet tortellini are a staple at Carnival time. Throughout Bologna you'll find many shops that even sell tortellini candies in white, milk and dark chocolate each with a creamy filling.