Citron or pumpkin? The region’s cult classic dish allows for (slight) deviations in the the filling – the focal point – and the shape of each individual “tortello.” Of course, the recipe boasts its very own associations, which defend its tradition: in 2015 – on the occasion of the famous Tortellata di Crema, Crema’s tortelli festival – the Confraternita del Tortello Cremasco (Crema Tortello Fellowship) was founded, while in the province of Mantua, many local organizations fly their pumpkin tortelli flag high, organizing their very own celebrations. One of the most renowned is that of Rivarolo Mantovano, but we also love “Di Zucca in Zucca,” which involves a variety of agriturismos.
Crema-style tortelli: citron, mints, amaretti and Marsala wine
“Tortelli Cremaschi” – with their surprising mix of flavors – is an ancient dish. Although there are no written records, the origin of the dish can be traced back to the presence of the Republic of Venice in the area – from the 15th to the 17th century – and the ensuing intermingling of spices and local products that introduced the typical sweet and sour flavors of the East. Though the dough doesn’t call for eggs, people do use them, while the pasta is topped with a sauce of butter, Grana Padano cheese, and sage. According to tradition, the tortelli were placed in a soup tureen while piping hot and topped with the ingredients mentioned above in layers. Afterwards, they were covered with a lid, left to sit for three minutes, and served in hot bowls. Obviously, the heart and soul of the dish is the filling. According to the Tortello Fellowship, 4 1/2 lbs. of tortelli call for: 3/4 lb. amaretti cookies (even going as far as specifying the brand: Gallina); 1/4 lb. sultanas; 2 oz. candied citron, 2 to 4 mints, a “mostaccino” (a spicy cookie typical of Crema), 1/3 lb. aged Grana Padano cheese, one egg yolk, grated lemon zest, 2 to 4 tablespoons of dry Marsala wine, a pinch of nutmeg, and a tablespoon of breadcrumbs.
The recipe requires careful work: the real tortelli cremaschi do not like the blender, so the amaretti cookies and mints should be crushed with a meat tenderizer or a rolling pin. The raisins should be soaked in the Marsala wine and then chopped up together with the citron using a mezzaluna knife. The mostaccino should also be crushed with the meat tenderizer or grated.
Mantua-style tortelli: advice from the Santini family
The most delicious pumpkin tortelli (Mantuan or not) on the planet hail from Dal Pescatore restaurant in Canneto sull’Oglio. With a flavor that’s out of this world, they stick to the traditional recipe with secret touches that, obviously, only Nadia and Giovanni Santini know. The filling calls for Mantuan pumpkin (at just the right stage of ripeness), chopped amaretti cookies, Mantuan mostarda, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, the zest of half a lemon, a handful of breadcrumbs (optional), nutmeg, salt, and pepper. The pasta dough requires one whole egg plus one egg yolk for every 3.5 ounces of flour, while the dish is topped with a sauce of salted butter, sage, and grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese before serving. When it comes to choosing the pumpkin or squash, the Santini family’s tip is quite interesting: “The squash should be heavy; if it’s light, it will almost certainly have a fleeting taste that won’t be persistent,” explains Giovanni. “We choose the ‘rusty’ ones with a bit of an orange hue. Then it also has to be rough and not shiny, with deep crevices and a dry stem.” And the variety? “We use American pumpkins. But buttercup squash also works well.” Nadia’s recommendation for the filling is also something extremely useful to keep in mind: “Some people let the pumpkin dry out in the oven and some use other methods. The most practical and least stressful thing for the pumpkin, and for me, is to place it in a linen bag and squeeze it out, so the excess water drains out and you can collect what will become the tortelli filling.” Try it, but resign yourself to the fact that yours will never come out like theirs...