Can a cake become a symbol of a city? Yes, if it's called the Torta Barozzi. Since 1886, this cake, made with chocolate and coffee, has been a source of pride for the town of Vignola in the province of Modena, where thousands of gourmands come every year to taste the specialty from Pasticceria Gollini.
When
Eugenio Gollini is credited for the birth of the Torta Barozzi. The year was 1886, when the pastry chef first baked the "Black Cake,” a result of years of experimenting with the theme of chocolate desserts. Its name, that has since gone down in the history books of pastry- making, was invented only in 1907, on the occasion of the fourth centenary of the birth of Jacopo Barozzi, Vignola’s most illustrious citizen in history. Eugenio decided to dedicate the cake to the famous architect and a myth was born. In 1948, the Torta Barozzi® became a registered trademark.
Where
Pasticceria Gollini is still in Vignola, under the arcades of Piazza Garibaldi, run by the great- granddaughters of Eugenio – Franca and Paola – who keep the recipe and the secrets of preparing the dessert close to their hearts. But the Torta Barozzi is not the only specialty that comes out of the family's workshop: spongata is another typical Emilian dessert, made of dried fruit and chocolate, that is also very popular.
Why
It is difficult to explain the joy that a slice of Torta Barozzi brings to your life to a person that’s never tasted it. Michele Serra even wrote that "to describe the Torta Barozzi, one should at least be Tolstoy.” First of all, there’s the taste: intense, almost spicy and less sweet than one would expect. The texture is moist (like that of a brownie, to be precise) and melts in the mouth. But the cake (if cut in the right way!), remains extraordinarily compact when portioned.
What
If you google Torta Barozzi, you can find dozens of recipes, but the original measurements and portionns remain a well protected secret at Pasticceria Gollini. The basic ingredients, however, are few and simple: dark chocolate, almonds, peanuts, eggs, butter and sugar. That’s right – no flour; the Torta Barozzi is gluten-free! It is strictly served in the aluminum foil it’s sold in. And if you cut it upside down, it can stay fresh for up to 40 days!
How
The cake is sold in different formats. The "historic" one is rectangular, about 400 grams worth (6 portions), for 25 euros – but there are also 700, 900 or even 1200 gram portions in addition to the round Barozzine from one hundred grams at 9.50 euro. They’re perfect souvenirs. Any cheaper versions? No way. But it's worth it! Don't stop at the surrounding bakeries where they sell the off-brand “Barozzi-style” cakes.
Article by Giorgia Cannarella