In the Italian province of Asti, known for its wine, the tirà is a beloved dolce. This candied fruit- and raisin-filled donut-like pastry reflects a centuries-old tradition that originated in the town of Rocchetta Tanaro.
History of the tirà
No specific document explains the Tirà’s namesake, but Mario Busso and Carlo Vischi's Dolci & Piemonte book shares what seems the world's most authoritative etymological interpretation.
In 1871, a law – which lasted until 1926 – was enacted for the order of military service, calling for the recruitment of Italian men once they reached the age of 21. Being drafted was a decisive twist of fate for some young men, especially for the children of farmers – having a son serve in the military was a source of pride.
This event was so important that families often organized multi-day parties that involved the entire town. The feasts honoring the recently drafted young men were nicknamed Al tiráj in dialect. For the special occasion, they uncorked the best wine – usually, one produced during the honoree son's birth year, ready to be tasted on the day of the party, which was called U Tiragi in dialect. Families would also prepare a large number of simple sweets that everyone could eat together – something to give to family and friends in honor of the celebration.
In more recent times, the well-known recipe for tirà has also become a dessert during Carnival festivities for its deliciousness and simplicity. In Asti, it's consumed year-round. One of the best places to try it? The pastry shop Fratelli Gaetani makes tirà according to the classic, original recipe.