Burnt, crispy, and spicy are the three essentials spaghetti all'assassina, or “killer's spaghetti,” a must-eat in Bari, a city in Puglia on the Adriatic Sea. The name assassina, which means killer, refers not to the felony, but rather the risottatura cooking technique that cooks pasta like risotto. Instead of boiling the spaghetti, it's cooked directly in the pan by consistently adding water to it each time the pasta absorbs it.
Its Origins
Felice Giovine, a historian of Apulian cuisine, states this dish originated at the end of the 1960s at Al Sorso Preferito, a restaurant in Bari's city center. Contrary to popular belief, spaghetti all'assassina wasn't created as a way to use leftover pasta. When the owners acquired the adjacent restaurant, a former rotisserie, they found the written recipe for the pasta and decided to give it a whirl.
The Academy of Spaghetti all'Assassina and the iron frying pan
Spaghetti all'assassina is such a source of local pride that a dedicated academy and counter-academy exists. These experts and enthusiasts are committed to enhancing it through monthly meetings that revolve around sharing and generosity. They're unwavering when it comes to cooking with the black iron pan, an essential tool for its preparation. This oiled, burnt frying pan is never washed but rather cleaned with newspaper so that it stays greasy. Massimo Dell'Erba, the academy's president, advocates for the iron pan due to its high heat conduction, though some safety regulations prohibit it. For homemade Assassina, Apulian food authority Sandro Romano explains that "a non-stick frying pan is also fine" while Dell'Erba points out that "iron pans purchased on the market can release oxides or other substances, so opt for professional iron frying pan [like a lyonnaise pan]."
The ingredients
According to the academy's recipe, the following ingredients are needed to prepare the dish for 4 people:
12 oz. vermicelli or spaghetti
2 cups tomato purée
tomato paste
oil
garlic
sugar
chili pepper
The academy recommends avoiding bronze-died pasta or one that is super starchy. "The original recipe starts with dry spaghetti, rehydrated using the risottatura technique," explains Romano. The heat under the pan should be significant so the recipe requires a high flame.
Spaghetti all'Assassina preparation
Prepare a broth made with water, 1½ cups purée, and plenty of tomato paste and salt, and bring to a boil. According to the academy, the sauce "must be bright red and tasty, but still a broth."
In the iron frying pan, add ½ cup oil, 3 garlic cloves (core removed), and chili pepper to taste. Dell'Erba suggests keeping 2 whole and chopping 1. Cook the garlic over a high flame until golden then pour in around ½ cup tomato purée. To temper the acidity from the tomatoes, you can add 1 tsp. sugar.
Spread the purée over the whole pan with a wooden spoon and let it reduce slightly. At this point put the uncooked spaghetti in the pan, distributing them in such a way that the pasta collects the sauce.
"Now the chef starts to take a step back," explains Dell'Erba. "You don't have to be in a hurry to turn everything, you have to wait for some of the spaghetti to start the shining process, not burning, but caramelizing".
Stir spaghetti as it starts to stick to the bottom of the pan a little, swapping the top layer of noodles for those already glossy from having been stuck to the bottom.
At this point add 2 medium-sized ladles of the tomato “broth.” The liquid will sizzle and start to simmer. Let it reduce without turning the spaghetti and "listen" for the boiling point. When you hear it "sizzle" again (the noise changes sharply), keep your distance and wait for the "burning" process to continue (this will take 30 seconds to 1 one minute).
Repeat, stirring to remove the burnt spaghetti from the bottom of the pan while adding more tomato liquid. Each addition must correspond to the time needed for it to sizzle and then repeat by soaking the pasta with the sauce. The stiff spaghetti will start to bend, and the whole process takes about 8-9 minutes. – the assassina "must suffer."
The result is a hard spaghetti with a different consistency than boiled spaghetti, but only the burnt ones "crunch." You need to taste it to decide the level of cooking and burning, and serve it when you think it's ready – bring the pan directly to the table.
Variations
Those who are from Bari would never dream of changing the original recipe, but cooking involves experimentation. There's the Assassina di Rape, made with broccoli rabe and stracciatella cheese, and Massimo Dell'Erba has also created two versions: the Assassina di Mare and one with fried Nolche olives (a sweet table olive).
The mare version uses squids and prawns, a bisque made with the heads of crustaceans to which you can add a bit of ciambotto, a typical Apulian fish stew. Cook the spaghetti in a fish stock following the above method.
For the version with Nolche olives, sauté them with cherry tomatoes and chili pepper, add oil and sauce, remove the olives with the skimmer and dilute the sauce with salted water. Then proceed as usual but with the fried olives broth, and also add some at the end, both whole and pitted.
Photo by Sandro Romano
There is also the Spaghetti all'Assassina focaccia created by Sandro Romano. This non-spicy iteration encompasses all the flavors of Bari's famous focaccia. "It is prepared by baking tomatoes, seasoned with olives and oregano, which I put on the plate when I serve it."
Where to try Spaghetti all'Assassina in Bari
Here's a selection of Bari-based venues approved by the Accademia dell'Assassina and Sandro Romano.