Brought to Sicily by the Arabs, the wondrous sesame seed is still cultivated by hand today, and with great effort, in Ispica, a town close to the southernmost part of the island. The guardians of its future are two brothers who are undeniably fond of those sunburnt fields.
Arranging a time to chat with the Gambuzza family is almost impossible: they're always at work. Ispica sesame seeds became a Slow Food Presidium in 2016, awarding grandfather Salvatore and uncle Domenico as the only remaining producers. Why? “It's due to both foreign competition and the type of cultivation, it's a very delicate job that requires a lot of manual work,” the brothers say.
Salvatore and Simone, 29 and 23, who, having reached the third generation, have never thought of doing anything else. "We grew up in the fields, learning the trade from our dad who passed on the passion for this plant to us."
Simone Gambuzza with his father Antonio
The Ispica sesame seed is a particular variety, roundish, of a dark amber color that appears semi-toasted, "but the color is natural, thanks to the Sicilian sun, which also gives it a very intense flavor," say the brothers.
The sesame seed is sown in May, weeds are removed in June, its marvelous white flowers can be admired from July to mid-September when the harvest takes place. Finally, the bunches are arranged in sheaves which dry in the sun for 20 days. “Some have tried to mechanize the processing, but it is impossible; think that inside each capsule there are eighty-four very small seeds! "
After cleaning, the seeds are ready for the table. In Sicily, it is the protagonist of cobaita, a nougat with honey confection, and is added to yogurt, breading, and bread – street food lovers know that they top the roll for pane e panelle, a chickpea fritter sandwich typical of Palermo.
The two brothers also transform their sesame seeds into tahini, the Middle Eastern sesame seed paste and oil to be drizzled on fish and salads. They've also introduced a line of cosmetics that showcase the richness of seeds' minerals and nutrients. It's no coincidence that “sesame” could open the treasure door.