Caponata siciliana is arguably Sicily's most quintessential dish. Whether you've traveled to the island or not, you're likely familiar with this kaleidoscope of eggplant, peppers, leafy vegetables, raisins, and pine nuts. Quite fittingly, the dish epitomizes the island's cuisine, which incorporates influences from its different rulings, in particular, the Spanish and the Arabs. In The Food of Italy (1971), Waverly Root writes that caponata, "whether it is a mixture of different cuisines or not, is indisputably a mixture of ingredients."
The recipe shared here is among the most classic, though around Sicily, it's not unusual to find versions with toasted breadcrumbs, almonds, and even grated chocolate.
Back in the day, caponata for the wealthier baronial classes was upgraded with fish, octopus, and pear slices. While the peasant version lacked such embellishments, it tasted equally delicious, even though it only contained vegetables.
Here's a recipe for a classic version, but you can feel free to make it your own by adding any ingredients you wish.
Caponata Siciliana
Photo: Riccardo Lettieri, Styling: Beatrice Prada
Time: 1 hour and 10 minutes + 1 hour of cooling
Skill Level: Intermediate
Recipe: Joëlle Néderlants
Ingredients for 6
2¼ lb./1 kg. round purple eggplants
1⅓ lb. 600 g. San Marzano tomatoes
¼ cup./60 g. white wine vinegar
2 oz./50 g. celery heart
2 Tbsp. /40 g. pine nuts
15-20 green olives in brine
10 basil leaves
2 white onions
salted capers
sugar
salt
extra-virgin olive oil
Cut the eggplants into not too small cubes, then place them in a colander and cover them with 4 large handfuls of salt. Let rest for 40 minutes.
Finely slice the onions and sauté them in a saucepan with 2-3 Tbsp. oil.
Blanch the tomatoes, peel them, cut them in half, and remove the seeds. Next, cut the pulp into small pieces.
Cut the celery into cubes.
Pitt the olives and cut them into chunks.
Desalt 2 Tbsp. capers.
Add celery, tomatoes, capers, olives, pine nuts to the onions, and cook for 3-4 minutes.
Rinse the eggplant under running water, squeezing them lightly to remove excess liquid. Dry them well with paper towels and fry them – not all at once, but in stages, for 5-6 minutes in abundant extra-virgin olive oil, until golden.
Let the fried eggplant dry on paper towels, then add it to the vegetables. Next, add 1 Tbsp. each of sugar and vinegar, and continue cooking for another 2-3 minutes. Season with salt, add the basil leaves, mix then turn off and let the caponata cool. You can serve it immediately, but it will taste even better the next day.