Sicilian pastries like sfincia di San Giuseppe are true works of art. The traditional desserts are an array of colors, flavors and aromas, a physical illustration of histories that hover between the sacred and the secular. Whether religious or pagan, every holiday has its own sweet delicacy: cannoli for Carnival, cassata for Easter, buccellato for Christmas, and so on. Ricotta-based creations are certainly the most famous, with their renown going so far beyond the island’s borders that they have become the very symbol of Sicily throughout the world.
Sfincia di San Giuseppe
In Palermo, Father’s Day is celebrated with sfincia di San Giuseppe, an enormous fried beignet covered with ricotta and decorated with chocolate chips, chopped pistachios, cherries and candied orange peel. Widespread throughout western Sicily, sfincia di San Giuseppe is part of the region’s gastronomic and cultural heritage. As with many other Sicilian desserts, its origin is mysterious and has been lost over time. According to some scholars, the name derives from the Arabic isfang (sponge), a word that the Moors used to refer to a soft, spongy, irregular-shaped fritter covered in honey or sugar. The current version was created by the nuns of the Monastery of Stimmate di San Francesco, demolished in 1875 to make way for the construction of the majestic Teatro Massimo. The noble nuns dedicated the sweet to Saint Joseph (San Giuseppe in Italian), the Saint of Humility. It was enhanced with ricotta, chocolate and candied fruit later on by skilled pastry chefs in Palermo. Nowadays, sfincia di San Giuseppe can be enjoyed any time of year, though better in winter when the ricotta is fresh. A smaller version is also very common throughout the city’s pastry shops (perhaps to alleviate feelings of guilt).
Sfincia di San Giuseppe: Pasticceria Costa’s recipe
Since 1960, Pasticceria Costa has been a fixture for generations of Palermo residents and visitors alike. The long family history began with Antonino Costa, the founder, and has continued with his son Riccardo and his young grandchildren Antonio and Matteo, all still involved in the management of the business today. In 2018, a second location was opened in the heart of the historic center, just a stone’s throw from the famous Quattro Canti square. The new pastry shop is a tribute to Art Nouveau and the Belle Epoque, one of the most joyous moments in the history of both Palermo and Sicily. Don’t miss out on Costa’s fresh ricotta desserts, in particular cassata, cannoli and, of course, sfincia di San Giuseppe, whose family recipe we’ve shared below.
Ingredients for 8 large sfincia di San Giuseppe
For sfincia di San Giuseppe: 1 cup water, 1/2 lb. lard, 1 tsp. salt, 2 cup flour, 7 eggs
For ricotta: 2 cups fresh ricotta cheese, 3/4 cup sugar, 1/4 lb. dark chocolate
How to make sfincia di San Giuseppe
Preparing sfincia di San Giuseppe
Boil the water, salt, and lard. Add in the flour, then the eggs, and mix until the dough is thick and smooth. Fry fist-size balls of dough in sunflower seed oil at 350°F for 10-15 minutes, then fry at 430°F until the dough is crisp and golden. Allow them to cool and rest for a few hours.
Preparing ricotta
Pass the ricotta through a sieve, mix it with the sugar, and add in the chocolate shavings.
Composing sfincia di San Giuseppe
Stuff Saint Joseph sfincia with about 3 ounces of ricotta. Using a spoon, cover the outside with ricotta. Finally, decorate with candied cherries, candied orange peel and pistachios.