The central region of Abruzzo, east of Rome, is blessed with both a Mediterranean and an Alpine climate. Known as Italy’s greenest region for its vast natural parks and preserves, Abruzzo extends from the Apennine mountains to the Adriatic coast. The cuisine of the coast is, not surprisingly, rich in seafood dishes, while the food of the region’s mountainous interior features fare such as lentils and chickpeas; hearty spaghetti alla chitarra; and grilled and roasted pork and lamb.
Abruzzo’s Gran Sasso d’Italia, a rugged mountain chain that is part of the Apennine range, boasts Italy’s highest peak outside of the Alps. The Corno Grande (big horn) rises to 2,912 meters—nearly 10,000 feet. In spring, summer, and fall, the mountains are popular with hikers and picnickers who share the foothills with herders of sheep and cattle. In winter, the Gran Sasso becomes a destination for skiers.
After a morning on the snowy slopes, there is nothing more welcome than a dish of crespelle in brodo, or crepes in broth. This dish, known as “scrippelle ‘mbusse” in the local dialect, comes from Abruzzo’s Teramo province, which is bordered on the east by the Gran Sasso. Teramano cooks use crepes in a number of delicious ways: layered into timballo with ragù and tiny meatballs; stuffed with meat or cheese and rolled into cannelloni; and simmered in this gentle, restorative soup.
Many traditional Italian recipes are accompanied by lore, and scrippelle ‘mbusse is no exception. It is said that a 19th century sous-chef who was preparing a meal for French officials staying in Teramo accidentally dropped a platter of rolled crepes into a pot of boiling broth. Rather than admit his mistake, the clever sous-chef served forth his new creation. The crespelle, sprinkled with pecorino cheese and rolled up cigar-style, are light but nourishing, and they soak up the broth like sponges. This is a dish that truly warms not only the body but the soul, too.
Scripelle M’Busse by Domenica Marchetti
Serves 4 to 6
Ingredients:
¾ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
4 large eggs
1 cup whole milk
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
about 2 tablespoons butter
2 cups freshly grated aged pecorino Abruzzese or pecorino Romano cheese, plus more for serving
8 cups homemade chicken broth, more as needed (see NOTE)
Method:
Sift the flour into a medium bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, salt, and nutmeg. Slowly pour the egg mixture into the flour, whisking to avoid lumps. The batter should be the consistency of thick cream. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Melt a little of the butter in a 9-inch skillet over medium heat—just enough to film the bottom of the pan. When the butter is hot, pour in a small ladleful of batter (a scant 1/4 cup) and quickly swirl the pan to coat the bottom with batter, forming a thin pancake. Cook for 30 to 45 seconds, or until just set and barely beginning to brown on the bottom. Using an offset spatula, flip the crepe and cook on the other side for 10 to 20 seconds, or until set. Transfer the crepe to a plate. Continue making crepes until you have used all the batter, making sure to add butter to the pan as needed. Stack the crepes on the plate as you remove them from the pan. You should end up with 12 crepes.
In a large saucepan, bring the broth to a boil over medium-high heat. While the broth is heating, assemble the crepes. Sprinkle 2 to 3 tablespoons of cheese on each crepe and roll them up, cigar-style. Place the crepes, seam side down, in shallow bowls, two to three per bowl. Ladle the hot broth over the crepes and sprinkle with additional pecorino, if you like. Serve hot.
NOTE: This dish depends on the quality of that broth. You’ll need to use your favorite homemade chicken broth to do it justice.
All the pictures are provided by Domenica Marchetti.