It’s called “panettone” because of its shape (“panettone” literally means “large loaf”) and because it reigns over the standard holiday food spread. But the savory version is actually served as an antipasto. In the ’70s and ’80s, it was the emblem of the holiday table setting, a must-have along with canapés and Russian salad to start off Christmas lunch. Beautiful, rich, and delicious... stuffed to the brim with a surprise in every layer.
It lives on in display cases of typical delicatessens, the ones with a slightly vintage style that has led younger generations to ignore them. Today, it’s managed to reclaim a place of honor along with penne alla vodka and nostalgic dishes dusted off and brought back into the limelight. You can purchase it at Eataly to get your fill, or even in historic bakeries that have never abandoned it. In Milan, savory panettone can be found in the historic Pasticceria Panzera; in Brescia at master Iginio Massari’s Pasticceria Veneto; even in Rome or Naples where it’s often called Pan Canasta. It can be put together at home with colorful, ready-made panbrioche or by starting completely from scratch. The recent evolution of savory panettone was spurred by the masters of “sweet” panettone, who offer a contemporary version of it. Instead of raisins, candied fruit, creams and glazes, cheese, guanciale, and precious truffles reign supreme. There’s even a pandoro-shaped version (a tall eight-point star) available from Pasticceria Martesana in Milan.
Possible combinations for an easy antipasto
In Mantua, Grazia Mazzali has created her own “Pepita del Po,” a savory truffle panettone. It’s crafted only with starter yeast – no added preservatives, artificial colors, or fragrances – and Bianchetto truffles from the Po River flood plains. The chef explains: “As a Mantuan, for me it’s also a way to take advantage of and enhance a product from my area. This cake was crafted to go with an aperitivo or as an antipasto, to be paired with semi-mature sheep’s milk or goat cheeses, shellfish, fish tartare, lardo, foie gras, smoked salmon, eggs, or porcini mushrooms. If, rather, we wanted to keep with Mantuan traditions, we could pair it with pike fish and a nice sparkling wine or a full-bodied red.”
Attilio Servi’s savory focaccia
At his Roman bakery, Attilio Servi crafts a panettone with semi-candied pears and 24-month-aged Parmigiano Reggiano Vacche Rosse. It’s called “Focaccia del Contadino Pere e Parmigiano” (“The Farmer’s Pear and Parmesan Focaccia”). In 2013, it was presented in Milan to the Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium, receiving awards and accolades that kicked off an entire line of focaccias and the return of the savory panettone in its modern version. Today, Attilio Servi also produces the Focaccia Trionfo d’Italia (tomatoes, Pecorino cheese, oregano), the Focaccia all’Amatriciana (tomato, Pecorino cheese, and guanciale), and the Focaccia Cacio e Pepe, a new addition as of 2017.
The gastronomic Christmas tree at Pasticceria Martesana in Milan
The traditional savory panettone has been reinterpreted by Alessandro Comaschi, who has given it an “all-new cut,” reminiscent of the classic Christmas tree shape. The bread used is not pressure-cooked, ensuring softness and ideal for capturing the flavors of the rich filling composed of salmon, shrimp, sirloin, cooked ham, salami, prosciutto, and foie gras. Offered in one size only, this savory “tree” costs €75. You can also request just a seafood-based or a cold cut-based version.
Pasticceria Veneto – Brescia
The Pasticceria Veneto is the realm of the legendary Iginio Massari. Opened in 1971 it’s a reference point for all of Italy.
Pasticceria Mazzali – Mantua
“Pepita del Po” (a savory truffle panettone), 7 oz. in a glass jar and 1 lb. for the classic size, in a shorter Venetian-style shape (they keep for 2 months and 3 weeks respectively).
Pasticceria Cortinovis – Ranica (near Bergamo)
Kudos include the coveted “Three Cakes” by Gambero Rosso, the silver medal at the World Pastry Cup in January 2009, and victories at the 1996 Italian Pastry Championship and Pastry Grand Prix in March 2003.
Pasticceria Panzera – Milan
The savory panettone is made in three different versions, with fillings made of just cold cuts, a cold cut/seafood blend, or just seafood. On request, it can be made using different flours: yellow, black cuttlefish-ink-based, and five-grain. Here, the savory panettone can be found year-round as “Panini Gourmand” (made with three types of flour and five different fillings) named after trains – Pendolino, Cassini, Mascagni – in honor of Milan’s Central Station, which houses the very first Panzera Milano location.
Pasticceria Svizzera – Genoa
Founded in the early 20th century by a Swiss in the building where English poet Lord Byron once lived, it’s a fixture in Genoa and has been on the list of Historical Places of Italy since 2010. The panbrioche is stuffed according to your taste: with bresaola from the Valtellina Valley and goat cheese, prosciutto di Parma, salami from Sant’Olcese, ham from San Marino, salmon, red or black lumpfish caviar, and tuna or cheese mousse.
Pasticceria Napolitano – Naples
Pan canasta made with a lightweight cheese-based dough, obtained through three different leavening periods, cut into multiple layers, and stuffed with a variety of ingredients: cheese, tuna sauce, shrimp sauce, prosciutto flakes, etc.
Pasticceria Cecere – Rome
In Rome’s Trastevere neighborhood for 50 years, it’s one of the Eternal City’s classic pastry shops.