The wines of Sardinia are just as intriguing as the island's food. Recent studies have highlighted how Cannonau, the most popular regional red, is one of the Mediterranean's oldest grape varieties. When it comes to the island's most famous grape, Vermentino – a white varietal that's widespread throughout the island – gives Cannonau a run for its money. The best Vermentino is found in Gallura, where it's protected by the DOCG.
Other native vines have been recovered and often vinified in purity with surprising results, such as Carignano del Sulcis, which makes warm Mediterranean reds; Monica, which is known for intense, fruity, and savory wines; and Bovale which produces full-bodied wines.
Moving on to the whites, Torbato produces excellent sparkling wine, and Nasco is used mostly for sweet wines, though the dry version is interesting. Malvasia di Bosa and the Vernaccia di Oristano also warrant a mention.
In addition to the large producers, such as Sella & Mosca, Mesa, and Argiolas, who have made Sardinian wines known throughout the world, cooperative wineries play a fundamental role in the island's wine production. The winemakers have vinified small plots, often with very old sapling vines, a practice with few counterparts in other Italian regions. Here are four wines of Sardinia worth a try.
1. Mesa Carignano del Sulcis Buio Buio Riserva 2017
This winery founded by the famous advertising executive Gavino Sanna is part of the Santa Margherita group today. This deep, elegant red encompasses the island's full character in a glass, with aromas of myrtle, juniper berries, and pepper. Pair it with baked suckling pig. website
2. Sella & Mosca Alghero Torbato Spumade Brut Classic Method Oscarì
This Moretti family now owns the historic winery, and they introduced a Classic Method wine made from the Torbato grape. The excellent result is a floral and citrusy wine, and great with fried shellfish and vegetables. website
3. Capichera 2018
Sardinia's most famous white wine, Capichera is made from Vermentino and known outside the regional borders. The rich aromas range from flowers to aromatic herbs to yellow fruit. The enveloping flavor has a savory and mineral finish. Uncork a bottle alongside pasta with shrimp and lemon. website
4. Giuseppe Sedilesu Cannonau di Sardinia Mamuthone 2017
A fine exemplification of Sardinia's best-known red grape, this wine has the aromas of Mediterranean scrub and the softness of ripe fruit. Full-bodied and velvety, it perfectly complements grilled meats. website
Cover photo: A glass of wine at sunset in Nebida, Sardinia. Credit: Getty Images/
Ivan Abramkin.