Sa coccoi prena is one of the simplest, most characteristic dishes of Sardinian cuisine. The fruit of the island’s agricultural and pastoral tradition, this stuffed focaccia has accompanied shepherds while they work since ancient times. As it’s not seasonal, it perfectly combines potatoes and cheese into a complete meal that satisfies on long days out in the pastures.
Sa coccoi prena: how it’s made
Sa coccoi prena is prepared with a base of flour and semolina that’s leavened, kneaded thoroughly, and left to rest for about an hour. For the filling, the first step is to boil potatoes. Once these are ready and cooled, they can be mashed. In the meantime, oil, onion, and chopped garlic are heated in a pan. They are then thoroughly incorporated into the potatoes, along with a bunch of fresh mint and cheese. Choosing the right cheese is crucial. In Ogliastra, where sa coccoi prena is more deeply rooted, they use “casu fiscidu,” also known as “casu axedu” or “casu fruhe” (depending on the area): a special type of fresh sheep’s milk cheese in brine. Sometimes goat cheese is used in its place, or even an aged pecorino, which provides an even more pronounced flavor.
The dough is then kneaded some more (some even add in potato), rolled out and given shape, which varies depending on the person: some form it into a sort of boat, while others follow tradition and mold the edges into a sun ray pattern. In any case, there should be a hollow in the center of about 4 inches, where the filling is gently placed. At this point, each “coccoi” is baked in a 350°F oven (usually wood-fired) for 15 minutes, or until the surface has puffed up and the bottom is golden. They can be eaten immediately or even a few days later, as they won’t lose their taste or soft texture – a feature that makes them perfect for sustaining shepherds during their long, lonely days out in the fields.
Photo by Ricette di Sardegna