Mantuans and Brescians both consider Lake Garda to be theirs. And they continue to argue over the origins of the roses cake, one of the most scrumptious cakes in Lombard cuisine. We’re not here to take sides, but you can’t deny it’s a cult classic in the area south of Lake Garda, around Mantua. According to various written sources, it was served for the first time in 1490 at the Gonzaga family palace, for the nuptials of the mesmerizing Isabella d’Este, who came to Mantua to get married. Inspired by the beauty of the 16-year-old girl, the Gonzaga family cook – Ferrara-native Cristoforo di Messiburgo, famous at the time and the author of several incredible cookbooks – came up with a shape similar to a bouquet of roses, made with dough and arranged in a circle until the baking pan was filled. Clearly, it was well-received and became part of the “official” dessert list of the Gonzaga palace, the best during that historical period for its cuisine “of princes and the people.”
Eggs, butter, and sugar (in abundance)
As often happens, the recipe was then personalized from baker to baker and from family to family, evolving into today’s version. In addition to its inherent deliciousness, it has also never lost one particular trait: due to its nutritional properties – it contains a significant amount of eggs, butter, and flour – a Torta delle Rose is considered a gift for new mothers, so they can regain their strength after birth. Obviously, masters of the art of dessert and budding talents alike continue to put the recipe to the test. Iginio Massari of Pasticceria Veneto in Brescia uses four different doughs. Giulia Cerboneschi of Creazioni Caffè, an establishment in Manerba that was awarded the title of “New Bakery of the Year” by Italian food and wine magazine Gambero Rosso, reinterprets tradition with a fitting contemporary touch.
Chef Riccardo Camanini’s jewel
When it comes to restaurants, the most renowned place in Italy – and abroad – to serve torta di rose is Lido 84. Riccardo Camanini offered it 20 years ago at Villa Fiordaliso, a restaurant where he was executive chef. “I was inspired in part by the traditional recipe and in part by a croissant-cake I saw in one of Ernesto Iaccarino’s books,” explains the Gardone Riviera-based chef and owner, “and I tried to recreate the two elements that drove me wild as a kid: the intoxicating scent of vanilla and the caramelized flavor of the base.”
Camanini’s talent and research have adapted the classic nature of the recipe: Lido 84’s two doughs use an ancient wheat flour from Verona, top-quality eggs and butter, and a good starter yeast. The torta di rose is served with a creamy Vov-based zabaglione. “Ten years ago, Massari told me, ‘You young kids aren’t able to make a proper zabaglione,’ So I took it as a challenge,” he says laughing. The real extra touch is the vanilla: “I was using a good vanilla but I wasn’t satisfied. It took me years to find Alain Abel’s, a small producer from Tahiti. It costs €860 per kilo but for me, it’s exceptional in its aroma and consistency.” Surely, Cristoforo di Messiburgo would have appreciated it as well.
Where to eat and buy it
The torta di rose holds pride of place in bakery displays, and you’ll always find it fresh at these shops near Lake Garda: Creazioni Caffè in Manerba; Vassalli in Salò; at Bosio in Desenzano. In Montichiari at Dolce Reale; in Bagnolo Mella at Sirani; in Brescia at Pasticceria Veneto, San Carlo and Bicelli; in Mantua at Pane al Pane, Pavesi, and Bignè d’Oro.
A pleasant surprise in Milan
At Matias Perdomo’s Contraste, the Mirror Menu always finishes off with a dessert cart completely dedicated to the torta di rose. The slice is served with a scoop of cream-flavored gelato. A classic touch after a sequence of aesthetically innovative dishes.