One of the most distinctive traits of Milanese cuisine is its “richness” – and not just in terms of substance, but also when it comes to the ingredients. As Lombardia is Italy's pulsating economic heart, it’s rather fitting that the gorgeous golden risotto named for its capital features the world’s most expensive spice, saffron, which costs more than gold in weight.
When in Milan, one of the best places to sample risotto alla milanese is Ratanà, where chef Cesare Battisti adds a deft, contemporary flair to traditional Milanese cuisine. As travel is currently limited, he was kind enough to prepare it for us and share the recipe, which can also be found in his cookbook, Cucina milanese contemporanea, co-written with Italian food journalist Gabrielle Zanatta.
According to Cucina milanese contemporanea, legend says that the idea of saffron rice dates back to 1574. Valerio of Flanders, a Flemish glassmaker, used saffron when painting the stained-glass windows of Milan's Duomo. For his daughter's wedding, his assistant also used the spice to add that hue characteristic of his boss' glassworks to the rice. Yet the first mention of the real “Yellow Milanese Risotto,” appears in 1829 in Nuovo cuoco milanese economico/New Economic Milanese Chef, a cookbook by Milanese chef Felice Luraschi.
The dish has of course evolved over time, and, like most recipes, it holds different meanings for different people. Here’s Cesare’s version.
Also, follow his advice – the best rice for risotto is carnaroli (not arborio!), and he explains why. Lastly, don't skip mantecare, a crucial step that comes at the end – he demystifies this sacred Italian finishing touch for which there's no proper English translation. It literally means “to whip” or “to stir,” but it's so much more.
Cesare Battisti's Risotto alla Milanese Recipe
Ingredients for 4
1 cup of authentic carnaroli rice
3½ cups of veal broth
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
½ stick butter (preferably alpine)
3 oz. Tipico Lodigiano cheese, grated (If you can’t find this, just substitue Parmigiano Reggiano.)
4 slices of bone marrow
20 saffron pistils
1 sachet of saffron powder
For the gremolata (optional):
parsley
anchovies
lemon peel
garlic
For the gremolata:
Finely chop the parsley, anchovies, lemon peel, and garlic, and mix together, with a mortar and pestle if possible. If not, crush with the flat part of a spoon. This condiment is typically served alongside meat dishes.
For the risotto:
Cover the bottom of a saucepan with extra-virgin olive oil, once warm, add the rice. Toast until the rice becomes translucent – about 3 minutes over high heat, stirring constantly.
Start cooking with the filtered meat broth. Add a ladleful, then the saffron powder and pistils, and cook. When the rice absorbs the broth, add another ladleful. The total cooking time should be 14-15 minutes – stir constantly. When cooked, turn off the heat, stir in the cheese and butter, and mantecare.
Finish with the slices of seared marrow and some saffron pistils, and drizzle the gremolata over the marrow and rice.
Photo Credit: Ristorante Ratanà