If you say “risotto,” to any Marchigiano, this is the recipe that would immediately come to mind for them. Though it's not the only risotto from Le Marche, other types made with quail, duck, and shrimp are saved for special occasions.
This is our “go-to” risotto – the butter and cheeses make for a rich but not unusual combination that you might easily find anywhere in Italy. What makes it different is the cinnamon, one of the aromatic spices used in our cooking that reflect the long relationship Le Marche had with the seafarers of North Africa and the spice traders of the East. The cinnamon adds a beautiful aroma.
For a version that's a little more elaborate, you can do as my Nonna Palmina did and top it with a classic sugo finto that's made quite simply by cooking down tomato paste with sweated onions.
Risotto alla Marchigiana by Fabio Trabocchi
Serves 6
Ingredients:
12 cups chicken Stock (page 214), or as needed
12 tablespoons (6 ounces) unsalted butter
1⁄4 cup finely chopped onion
2 1⁄4 cups Carnaroli or Arborio rice
Kosher salt
1 1⁄4 cups dry white wine, such as Verdicchio or Pinot Grigio
1⁄4 cup grated mild pecorino, plus more for serving
1⁄4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1⁄4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Freshly ground black pepper
1 lemon
Method:
In a medium saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a boil. Reduce the heat and keep it at a low
simmer.
Melt 2 Tbsp. butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion, reduce the heat to low, and cook slowly, stirring occasionally with a wooden spatula or spoon, until the onion is soft and translucent but has not browned.
Add the rice and 1 tsp. salt and stir for 1 to 2 minutes to toast the rice. Add the white wine, increase the heat, and simmer, stirring constantly, until the pan is almost dry.
Ladle 1⁄2 cup of the simmering stock into the rice and stir constantly until it's completely absorbed. Continue cooking, adding stock 1⁄2 cup at a time and stirring constantly, letting each addition of broth be absorbed before adding the next.
After about 16 to 18 minutes, you should have added about 10 cups of stock. The rice should be al dente, and the risotto should be quite thick and creamy. If the rice is not yet al dente, add more stock and continue cooking as necessary.
Remove the pan from the heat and gently fold in both cheeses, the remaining 10 Tbsp. butter, and the cinnamon. The risotto should be soft and creamy. If it seems too thick, add more
stock a spoonful or so at a time. Season to taste with salt and pepper.