Those who love Roman pizza call it “bassa e scrocchiarella” (thin and crispy). Others insult it by calling it a “cracker” or “frisbee” – usually partisans of the fluffier Neapolitan pizza. But the pizza in Rome today is much more than all that. Chasing the new wave that has ennobled Neapolitan pizza, to the point where it got UNESCO recognition as World Heritage, Roman pizza is now vying for a title as well. Something must be said for the endless requests for the thin and crispy pizza loved so much by those living in the capital, and all over the world!
We asked Massimiliano Ceccarelli, a pizza maestro in Rome, to recount his long experience making Roman pizza with a rolling pin – because that’s how it’s done there. And this is precisely one of the heated points of the debate.
He told us the rules of Roman pizza in the past:
Dough prepared by hand, with a flour/water ratio of approximately 4 pounds of flour for 1 quart of water, resulting in a very hard, dry dough.
Very brief rising time: after a few hours the balls are cut and left to sit for five or six hours at most, strictly at room temperature.
Each ball weighed around 6 oz.
Only fresh brewer’s yeast, no starter yeast, biga or otherwise.
Refined flours of Italian type 0 and make sure not to exaggerate with high quality of ingredients, since pizza has always been seen as food for the poor masses.
The pizza was rolled out strictly with a rolling pin.
The edges were flat and the toppings all the way up to the edge.
The pizzas were about 12 inches each.
Cooked in a vaulted oven kept at a relatively low temperature (575-650 °F compared to over 750 °F for Neapolitan pizza).
Cooking time at least two minutes (as opposed to the Neapolitan minute or so).
Pizza Romana by 180g, Centocelle (Roma)
But these rules have evolved. Today you’ll find these adjustments:
There is no defined ratio for the dough, nor a right or wrong amount or type of flour or yeast. Each pizza chef in Rome follows his own tastes.
The dough should rise for no less than 8 hours and the balls must be formed no less than 4 hours before use, to ensure their digestibility.
Use of a rolling pin is optional, and discouraged for many types of dough.
Electric ovens are allowed, while the temperature is still around 575-650 °F.
The quality of ingredients and seasonings must be good, always aiming higher.
The end result: evolution
There are some pizzerias in Rome today, such as 180g, Magnifica, Passetto, that are taking a positive new look Roman pizza. These are the good examples that should be followed. Their Roman pizza has common characteristics: it’s thin, crispy, without an excessive crusts, and golden-brown. These are the standards, and everything else is constantly being improved. So you can expect lots of innovation in the coming years.