Lamenting the seemingly slow disappearance of traditional Genoese culture, journalist Giovanni Ansaldo wrote in 1930: “It's a shame for the world, to whom we've given two things – as big as America and Pasqualina cake." Though the origins of the typical recipe for Pasqualina cake seem to be lost in time, its true heritage is still disputed. But the Ligurians have a special document from 1500 written by Ortensio Lando on their side – in which he quotes the Genoese Pasqualina in "Catalogo degli inventori delle cose che si mangiano et si bevano,” appreciating it so much himself that he wrote: "I liked the honey more than the bear.”
A close-up view
Pasqualina cake is a savory cake recipe typical of the Genoa area; it is baked in the oven and filled with vegetables (usually spinach), eggs and cheese. Today, its taste has gone beyond the boundaries of the Genoa and by now, it’s well known by every Ligurian palate (and many more across the country). Its name already explains the occasion and the moment when, traditionally, it was prepared. In fact, it was generally used as the main course on the Easter menu (called ‘Pasqua’ in Italian). And there are many traditions linked to this particular recipe… so let’s check them out, shall we?
Pasqualina cake is even better when eaten cold, the day after baking it. This is why, over time, it has become one of the main culinary symbols – not only of Easter, but also of Easter Monday (Pasquetta, or Lunedì dell'Angelo). In fact, it is used as a dish for picnics and trips out of town on Easter Monday in Italy. The ingredients vary according to the seasons. In addition to eggs and cheese, herbs, peas, onions and artichokes (especially Albenga artichokes) are used; but some even use borage, chard, and spinach, too.
The original pasqualina cake ingredients are essential, though – marjoram and presinsêua (a typical Ligurian curd cheese that’s very difficult to find outside this region.
Puff pastry dough. Tradition has it that as many as 33 layers were made, like the years of Christ. All very thin. Over the years, due to lack of time, the number of layers has decreased. The type of dough is also particular – it is prepared with water, flour, and olive oil, but without the yeast.
Pasqualina cake, according to tradition, must be covered after filling it. The lower sheet of pastry must exceed the edges of the baking tin, so as to form a beautiful decorative curled crust with the upper one.
In the past, given its size, home ovens were not enough to bake this recipe. For this reason, people used to engrave their family's figures on the dough when they delivered it to the community oven. So, when they went to pick it up from the baker, they didn't confuse it with the others.
Grandma's advice
You’ll want to prepare this cake the day before. Wash the vegetables thoroughly, remove the stalks, and cut the leaves into very thin strips. Then put them in a cloth and wait all night for them to release their water. Boil some with herbs in water or sauté them in a pan with the artichokes and fried onion. Leave the rest of the vegetables raw in the dough and cook directly in the oven.
Raw or cooked, you’ll add the vegetables to the filling with grated cheese, beaten eggs, salt, and fresh marjoram. Pour the mixture into a cake tin and spread the prescinsêua on top.
With a spoon, make some wedges where you’ll decorate the surface with whole hardboiled eggs. Close everything with the second layer of pastry dough and bake from 45 minutes to an hour, depending on the size of the cake.
Text by Alice Dutto