At first glance, it might seem almost like a strange pizza, but upon closer inspection, you realize this is Pane Frattau, a traditional Sardinian dish originally from Barbagia, a central area of the region. Pane Frattau consists of a dough similar to carasau bread that is softened in broth and seasoned with tomato sauce, pecorino cheese and a poached egg. A simple and traditional recipe, it’s definitely worth a try at home – with the precious advice of bakers who still make it every day. Let’s start from the origins.
Pane Frattau: the origin
According to legend, Pane Frattau was invented by Sardinian housewives for the occasion of King Umberto I's renowned visit to Sardinia – to surprise the king with the few ingredients they had available to them at the time: carasau bread, tomato preserves, grated pecorino cheese and eggs from the henhouse. A peasant dish that soon became part of the island's rich culinary tradition.
The history of Pane Frattau can also be found in its name, hinting at the recipe’s anti-waste philosophy. The word ‘Fratau’ literally translates to ‘grated’ or ‘cut into pieces.’ Originally, shepherds brought carasau bread, some water and a piece of pecorino cheese or sausage with them into the fields – all placed in the ‘taschedda,’ a small leather backpack. When they returned home, the carasau bread that had broken into small pieces were then used in the recipe for Pane Frattau, soaked in water or broth to soften it. Then they combined it with the other ingredients so typical of peasant tradition.
Pane Frattau: the recipe
How do you make Pane Frattau? We discovered it in a place where bread is the protagonist – at the Panefratteria di Sassari, an authentic bread restaurant run by chef Paolo Pintus. Pane Frattau, zuppa gallurese and zichi (a typical Sardinian bread) are some of the specialties to taste here with recipes handed down generation-to-generation, thanks to the passion of Paolo’s father Giovanni and the experience in his historic restaurant Li Lioni in Porto Torres – opened 40 years ago and still run by the other Pintus brothers.
The recipe for Pane Frattau is very simple. For each portion, you need two sheets of carasau bread dough. Quickly dip them in a large pot with boiling vegetable broth to soak – first on one side and then on the other. Yes, you'll probably burn your fingers. It will only take a few moments, though – just enough time to wet them. Place the bread in a large dish and dress with tomato sauce, plenty of grated pecorino cheese and, in the middle, a poached egg – don't be afraid of this cooking technique, though! Just practice the steps a couple of times to be able to do it easily.
If you want to improvise with this recipe and you don't have vegetable or meat broth available, simply use boiling salted water to make the carasau bread soft – whole or in (re- assembled) pieces. Pane Frattau is certainly a symbol of peasant cuisine of the past, but it can also be transformed into a rich dish with many other ingredients – just like some of the menu options here at the Panefratteria. From simple seasonal vegetables to traditional sauces like ghisadu, a meat stew cooked for three hours. Then there’s campidanese style, served with a sausage ragù.
How do you eat Pane Frattau?
Although there is no official rule for eating Pane Frattau, there is definitely a way to enjoy it at its best. According to Rita, the woman in charge of the bakery. First, break the egg in the middle and spread it all over the surface. Then, divide the bread into two (or four) parts and fold them onto themselves. This will keep the seasoning warmer and you will taste the egg in every soft bite.