It’s one of Palermo’s most beloved street foods. If you’re planning a trip to the Sicilian capital, make sure you take a stroll along the Mondello seafront to taste the boiled octopus.
In the 1950s, it was sold in the stalls of the fishing village and cooked in huge pots, after being smacked vigorously and repeatedly on the rocks near the sea. This scene was so typical that it was even filmed by director Giuseppe Tornatore in his famous commercial with Monica Bellucci for a Dolce & Gabbana perfume. The octopus was then lifted out of the pot with a fork and chopped into pieces only when it was ready to be eaten. Today, there are no more traditional octopus sellers, but you can taste this specialty in the restaurants in Piazza di Mondello, the locals’ favorite stretch of beach, or in the city’s historic markets.
L’Angolo di Mondello Restaurant
The family has the sea in its bones, and specializes in the art of octopus fishing. “My grandfather was a specchiarolo. From the boat he would lean down into the water, using a big mirror to identify the octopus and thus give directions to the fishermen about what to do.” So explains the 27-year-old chef Gaspare Giammanco from the restaurant L’Angolo di Mondello, which celebrated its first anniversary on May 16. They serve traditional Sicilian seafood. In the dining room, Franco, the father, is in charge, with his extensive experience in the world of catering. The mother, Patrizia Caruso, from a local family as well, also plays a crucial role. The passion for fishing also includes Salvatore, the couple’s eldest son, who began fishing when he was a child. Ever since taking over the Provvidenza, his maternal grandfather’s fishing boat, he has enjoyed fishing in the crystal clear waters of the Gulf of Mondello for calamari, snapper and other delicacies that end up in his brother’s kitchen. The restaurant is cozy and inviting, decorated in white and blue. In the summer, passers-by can enjoy the boiled octopus for only €6 when eaten standing up – as in the street food tradition – from the colorful ceramic dishes arranged on a counter outside.
Palermo boiled octopus recipe
Ingredients: Fresh octopus, 2/3 lemon, Fresh parsley, Extra-virgin olive oil, Salt
Instructions: Wash the octopus thoroughly and place it in a pot with water. Add salt and bring to a boil. The octopus will be ready as soon as it is tender (check with a fork). The bigger the octopus, the longer the cooking time. Drain the octopus and place it on a cutting board. Let it cool and cut up the tentacles. Cut the head in half, removing the stomach and inedible parts. Season the octopus with olive oil, lemon juice and parsley. Serve in small pieces on a serving plate and garnish with lemon slices and sprigs of parsley.
Advice from the sommelier
Excellent with Inzolia, a native variety particularly common in western Sicily. It is a wine with a young character, featuring a bold fragrance and freshness thanks to its lush scents and minerality, which pairs well with the sweetness of the boiled octopus.