Mostarda is one of my favorite additions to a cheese plate—and I’m not talking about the yellow paste you put on a hot dog (the Italian word for mustard is senape). Rather, mostarda from northern Italy is a zesty condiment traditionally made with candied fruit infused with drops of pungent mustard extract. The sweet and spicy accompaniment comes in a range of flavors and textures, and is typically served with rich foods such as roasted meat, salumi, and formaggi. The heat from the mustard oil balanced with the sweetness of the fruit makes it a killer pairing with a wide array of cheeses.
Cheeses and mostarda
The origins of mostarda go back to the need to preserve fresh fruit, and the term likely comes from the Latin mustum ardens, or mosto ardente in Italian, which translates to spicy grape must. Among the regional variations in northern Italy are mostarda di Cremona, made with whole pieces of mixed fruits, and mostarda di Mantova, which consists of slices of a single fruit, such as quince or pear. In the Veneto, pureed fruit is the base, and the consistency is smooth and spreadable.
Crab apple mostarda
Both mostarda cremonese and mostarda mantovana are available in the US, at stores such as Di Palo’s Fine Foods and D. Coluccio & Sons in NYC, Eataly locations, and online. I especially love the range of mostarde from Casa Forcello, founded by Paola Calciolari and based on the traditional mostarda she made with her grandmother while growing up in Mantova. She has more recently expanded beyond the classic versions of pear and mele campanine, or crab apples, with pink grapefruit and orange and chocolate variations.
Calciolari describes mostarda as “uno sfizio ma non un vizio,” or a treat, but not a vice. “You use very little, but it enhances an everyday dish with an explosion of flavor. And over time, I realized that, given its balance of sweet and spicy, you can pair mostarda with many things, not just cheese.”
Paola Calciolari, Founder Casa Forcello
This time of year, mostarda served with bollito misto, or mixed boiled meats, is a classic Christmas and holiday meal throughout northern Italy. “Our product isn’t new, it’s part of a tradition,” explains Calciolari. “When you eat a dish, it’s not just about the flavors in your mouth; there are other sensations and emotions you experience, and it can be very powerful. The dream of Italy through food, this is what we little producers have to carry on.”
Check out chef Leonardo De Paoli’s recipe for Bollito Misto.