Unlike the Mostaccioli, few local products of Italian culinary tradition have had such widespread reach. There are so many regions, Puglia, Sardinia, Calabria, Sicily, Lazio, Campania, Abruzzo and Lombardy that claim its birthright. You can in fact trace back to ancient roots of this product in each of these places which depending on the position will have had a completely different evolution compared to other regional versions. The best known recipe was inspired by Neapolitan tradition and provides a rhombus-shaped, crunchy cake with an intense almond flavor. For this type of Mostacciolo, the mosto cotto (“cooked must”) is essential to help sweeten the dough. For this reason, up until a few decades ago, these cookies were prepared in November when the harvest was over, and the first grapes began to ferment. Dark in color, very sweet and with a strong flavor, Mostaccioli are traditionally covered with chocolate icing but in different regions many variations are proposed with orange, white chocolate and hazelnut.
Mostaccioli: Name and Origins
According to many traditions the name derives from the main ingredient: the “must” from the Latin "mustum". First evidence of the Mostaccioli ancestry dates back to Roman times. These cookies were in fact offered to guests at the time of departure. The "mustaceans" made their appearance in Catone's "De Agricoltura" which accurately describes their preparation: "soak through a modius of flour with the must, add aniseed, cumin, two pounds of fat, a pound of cheese and bay leaf when you have kneaded and given the right shape, cook on top of laurel tree leaves". Today, the version that comes closest to the recipe described by Catone is probably the one from Abruzzo, where the main ingredients are still flour, honey and “must” well cooked. The recipe from ancient Rome however is not the only one that has been handed down. According to many the Mustazzoli (the name by which they are known in Puglia) has Arabic origins.
Neapolitan Mostaccioli
The Neapolitan version of Mostaccioli also known as Mustaccioli or Mustacciuli, is strictly prepared with must and glazed with chocolate. Mostaccioli, with their traditional rhombus shape are particularly loved by children because the recipe combines honey with chocolate. Together with Roccocò, Raffiuoli, Susamielli and Struffoli, these cookies are considered typical Neapolitan Christmas specialty.
Mustazzoli from Salento
In the Apulian tradition particularly in Salento, Mustazzoli are prepared with cooked figs and not with grape must. This difference is also marked by the name which according to this version of the cookie isn’t derived from "mustum" must but from "mustace", that is laurel which was used in ancient times to flavor cookies during baking. The main ingredients of Mustazzoli are flour, sugar, almonds, lemon, cinnamon and honey.
Calabrian Mostaccioli
This style of Mostaccioli is based on flour, honey and hot must but compared with other versions have a characteristic feature; they take the most varied of shapes. Humans, animals and flowers are just some of the forms Calabrian cookies take. Legend has it that a monk is responsible for the spread of Calabrian Mostaccioli. The story says that during a period of famine the man appeared suddenly and disappeared into thin air, having brought as a gift to the Soriano Calabro population, in the province of Vibo Valentia the cookies. Traditionally, virtually throughout Calabria, it is custom that the Mostacciolari maestros primarily give the cookies the shape of the patron saint of the country.