In Valle d'Aosta, there are more than seventy municipalities – each with its own patois (or local dialect) and its own way of preparing (and naming) cold cuts. For this reason, there are several names for the sausage in question – from mocetta to motsetta or motzetta. It all depends on the valley you’re in. What is certain, however, are the ingredients used to prepare this ancient salami recipe, with its many uses in the kitchen, which reminds us a little bit of bresaola. But we wouldn’t suggest saying this out loud – because in the valley, they might take offense: Mocetta is mocetta.
Valle d’Aosta cattle farming
Valle d’Aosta in Italy consists mainly of cattle farms. Just imagine – in 2014, there were more than 30,000 cattle in the region (and almost 4,000 farms locally registered), of which twenty thousand are the red spotted breed. In the last few years, the situation has not changed so much: Cattle farms, compared to sheep or goat farms, are still number one – even if a sort of centralization has occurred. Stables and farm numbers may have fallen, but not cattle breeding, demonstrating that it is a profession fewer and fewer people take part in. Moreover, cattle breeding here in the valley lasts all year round; it has almost no seasons. The cows of Valle d'Aosta spend most of their life grazing, often changing grasses according to the season, ultimately choosing what to feed themselves. Therefore, in addition to a variety of milks, from which the various exceptional dairy products (such as fromadzo, toma and fontina cheese), the Valle d'Aosta cows also provide a very tasty meat that can be used in a variety of ways in the kitchen. One of the best ways to try the goodness of Valdostan beef is carbonada – a sort of stew made from lean meat cut into cubes and cooked in wine, often together with sosa, a stew of mixed vegetables. And then, of course, there’s the queen of Valdostan cold cuts: Her Majesty the mocetta – both fresh and seasoned.
What is mocetta? (And what about misada or tseur achétaye?)
Mocetta is no joke in Valle d’Aosta. It is made with only the legs of old cows. In the past, it was also made with goat, chamois or ibex leg bones, but these days (fortunately), these animals are protected from being hunted. "But that wasn't the case in the past; mocetta was made with game," explains Denise Marcoz from the restaurant Lo Grand Baöu. "In fact, today, for example, only those who go hunting for chamois make it with chamois. Otherwise you'll only find old Valle d’Aosta cows around.” Mocetta can also be eaten fresh or raw, before the process of salting and drying takes place: In this case, it’s called tseur achétaye or misada, which reminds us a bit of the Trentino carne salada, seasoned only with walnut oil and wild celery, as Denise prepares it. To make mocetta, on the other hand (i.e. salted and dried), proceed as follows: First of all, always use the leaner part of the thigh. Place in a container with salt, bay leaves, sage, garlic cloves, pepper and other spices. Then keep it cool under a weight – as the ancient preservation method calls for. In the meantime, this will form a brine, in which the meat must stay submerged for at least two weeks. After salting (unlike bresaola), the meat is left to dry directly hung in an airy place for at least three or four months, instead of bagging it to cure. (Note: The more time it cures, the better it will taste.) Once it’s cured, the mocetta can be used for typical Valdostan snacks or other delicious recipes!
Using mocetta in the kitchen
The best way to taste mocetta is on its own – served as an appetizer. Alternatively, there are numerous recipes you can use it with, especially combined with other local products from Valle d'Aosta. For example, it is often served on warm rye bread crostini with honey or butter. It’s also excellent with mushrooms, seasoned with a sauce of oil, lemon, garlic and parsley. It is also excellent with cheeses, from fresh goat cheese to fontina cheese, but also with fresh vegetables such as salads or fennel – especially if you’re on a diet. Then there is another curious dish that we found in a local cookbook: a recipe for ‘Su sci valdostano’ by Agostino Buillas, from Cafè Quinson in Morgex, a sort of personal reinterpretation of Fénis' rolls.
The recipe for ‘Su sci valdostano’
Serves 4 people
Ingredients for the risotto:
7 oz carnaroli rice, Vegetable stock, 8 slices medium-thick lard d’Arnad, 4 oz mocetta, 4 oz cheese (fontina or Gressoney toma cheese work well, too)
Ingredients for the mayonnaise:
4 oz egg yolks
1 pinch of salt, The juice from ½ lemon, ½ liter walnut oil
Method:
Toast the rice as you would for a risotto. Add vegetable broth at twice the volume of the rice. Boil it, then cover and transfer to a preheated oven to bake at 355°F (180°C) for about 15 minutes. Once cooked, place on a flat surface and let cool. Stir with a spatula to cool it faster and transfer to the fridge to chill for about two hours. In the meantime, prepare the mayonnaise. After two hours’ chilling time, spread the slices of lard on a sushi mat, overlapping them slightly. Add a layer of rice (about 1 cm thick), making sure to leave at least half of the roll free of lard so it can roll up. Overlay the rice with a layer of mayonnaise distributed using a sac à poche or a spoon. Place a strip of mocetta and cheese on top and roll up for a compact roll. Cut the roll into slices (about 3 cm thick) and transfer to a serving plate. Serve in combination with a glass of Nineveh from Ermes Pavese or Saint-Ours from Noussan to discover the recent, yet constantly growing, Valdostan viticulture. Oh, by the way: Did you know that you can use cow’s udder to make a similar sausage to mocetta? Called teteun, this sausage is eaten traditionally every year in August in Gignod.