Who knows if we can visit Lunigiana this summer to eat sgabei. If this isn’t possible, we thought we’d share first what they are and where you can find them in Milan, along with other products of this magical land, such as panigacci or testaroli al pesto. We’re talking about Testami, the first and only Lunigiana restaurant in the city, opened in 2017, but was actually born much earlier, from a love story.
Testami and the love for Lunigiana
You can’t help but fall in love with Lunigiana. It’s a land of passage, accessible just in its appearance because it reveals itself only to those who bother to go a few kilometers beyond the tarmac driven roads along its rocky secondary dirt roads that lead to places like; the chestnut trees of Camporaghena, or towards Zeri with its lambs and potatoes, or around Bagnone to discover Treschietto onion, or to Fivizzano in the woods towards the Cerreto Pass. It’s here that years ago two fabric sellers, Piergiulia and Andrea Vitolo, genuine Milanese, fell in love with Lunigiana and decided to take up residence there. While continuing to live in Milan, they spent their summers here, passing on their love for this land to their children Marco and Simona. Lunigiana thus became a land very close to their hearts so much so that in 2005 the two brothers opened a restaurant right in the center of Fivizzano: the Brera sandwich shop. Later, there was a stronger desire to bring a little Lunigiana to Milan, and make this still little known territory, a Tuscany far from its most classical symbolic representation, known even in the big city. The initial idea was a food truck with only sgabei, then in 2017 Marco opened Testami, a small bistro kitchen and shop selling other products (and wines) from Lunigiana. Dario Tonghini, originally from Piacenza, has been in the kitchen since January who after various experiences (including that of Carlo and Camilla), began to embrace Lunigiana origins. And frying sgabei to perfection.
That endless world of fried yeast pastries
The world of fried leavened dough is as varied as it is ancient. For centuries man has been frying such simple dough, based on water, flour and yeast, and then eating it alone or accompanied with other ingredients. Apparently, the sgabei could be reminiscent of the most famous fried gnocchi of neighboring region Emilia Romagna, or the crescentine bolognesi or the panzanella of some areas of Tuscany (not always indicative of the Tuscan preparation based on bread and tomato). Also the pizz'onta in Abruzzo and Marche, or in Naples and Casert, where a universe of fried fritters exists; from pasta cresciuta to zeppole with seaweed, often given away in the streets, to the mountains with tomato and basil, and pizzelle without yeast or the long angioletti that can be found both sweet and with cherry tomatoes and rocket. Not to be outdone by the Arab world, for example in Tunisia where it’s normal to come across fried fritters such as ftira. Not only in the Mediterranean however, fried pastry has also emigrated to South America, especially to Uruguay and Argentina, where you can find the torta frita, eaten sweet with a sprinkling of sugar, or with Dulce de Leche. Still, there's something that makes sgabei unique and different from all other fried pastry.
Sgabei
The name comes from the Latin skabellum, which indicates both the stool and the shoe, probably because of the shape. In fact, sgabei always have a precise shape and size that differentiates them: 15 centimeters long and 5 centimeters wide. Moreover, unlike for example, fried gnocco, the dough inside remains empty. "It's not easy”, says Marco, “sometimes it doesn't even work for us!". For this reason, thickness and leavening of at least 3 or 4 hours is fundamental. In this regard Marco has done plenty of anthropological research, asking the ladies who still prepare them as they used to for techniques and secrets. But the answer was almost always the same, "freehand, Marco, everything is done freehand!". Their secret lies in the manual skills passed down through generations, from the time when women used to prepare them for lunch for their men who worked in the fields, with the dough left over from making bread, then fried in lard. Today they are no longer fried in lard for obvious health reasons, but in reality, not much else has changed. Sgabei can still be found all around Lunigiana, prepared especially by the ladies for festivals and village feasts, particularly in Sarzana and the surrounding area, where they are eaten as a single dish like a sandwich. In the restaurants however, it’s more likely you’ll find them as appetizers in combination with other products; the important thing is that they are always Lunigiana products and an opportunity to try other delicacies of the area. For Marco "sgabei with raw sausage is to die for and the one we sell the most", but also with cheese and other cold cuts such as bacon, local lard made with Cervia salt (and not that of the nearby Colonnata). The sea isn’t far away either, so the sgabei can also be enjoyed with anchovies. For those with a sweet tooth on the other hand, there is no shortage of sweet combinations too, with honey or chocolate. Finally, since we’re talking about perfect pairings, a glass of local wine, such as Pollera, is a must too. Here’s Lunigiana di Testami from the comfort of your own home!