Cilento, in the Campania region, is the birthplace of biodiversity. There is a rare, ancient legume in this unique area, different from all the others, which can only be found here: the maracuoccio di Lentiscosa. Since 2016, the Lentiscosa maracuoccio is included as Presidio Slow Food.
In the houses of Cilento, in fact, maracuoccio has always been around; the women in the area remember it well, who for years, especially during the most difficult periods because it’s extremely nutritious. The most common dish made with this legume is the maracucciata. Over time this typical food has regained its production and consumption, reminding us of the area's power, especially on the coast.
What is maracuoccio
Maracuoccio name derives from mar, which means bitter, and cuoccio means a pod, so the local word means a bitter pod. Some believe it to be an ancestor of the cicerchia, very similar to the pea, even believe smaller. In reality, it’s the legume most reminiscent of roveja of the Sibillini Mountains for its shape (irregular), color (different shades of brown), and flavor.
Of course, the Lentiscosa maracuoccio is unique. It is sown only in the area around Lentiscosa, above the wonderful beaches of Marina di Camerota's wonderful beaches in winter between December and March, and then harvested in summer between June and July, depending on the climate. Just think that it is one of those rare products that doesn’t exceed about 5 quintals of production per year.
Lentiscosa maracuoccio
That's why they worked so hard to make it a Presidio Slow Food, which happened in 2016, thanks in particular to Gaetano Belluccio, who everyone calls Nino, head of the Food Community; Mimmo Caiazzo, head of the Slow Food Camerota and Golfo di Policastro Convivium; Giuseppe Rivello, aka Jepis, who was a fiduciary at the time. Over time the Maracuoccio Association was founded, with Mimmo's daughter, Carmen Caiazzo, and her husband Francesco Esposito, to try and increase in any way possible the cultivation of this legume which is subject to various complications, not least that of wild boars. Luckily, they are doing a great job, and the Lentiscosa maracuoccio has become increasingly widespread, in particular, the flour that is obtained to prepare the local dish: the maracucciata, a kind of Mediterranean polenta.
How to prepare Maracucciata
Maracucciata is an ancient dish that has fed the poorest families in Camerota for a long time. It’s prepared like this: you start by heating salted water in a large copper pot, called caurara. Then when it boils, you slowly add maracuoccio flour and sieved wheat flour over low heat. In the past, out of necessity, it was also allowed and indeed often used flour from other legumes such as chickpeas, broad beans, or Indian peas. Today it’s also important to avoid the false maracuoccio flour and at least 50% made of maracuoccio flour. Once you are sure you are starting with the correct basic ingredients, you can go ahead and mix the mixture with a long wooden stick so that it doesn’t stick to the pot or form lumps. In the meantime, sauté some bread croutons with oil and onion, garlic, or chili pepper. Finally, combine everything and serve hot, better if accompanied by a piece of cheese and a glass of red wine. In recent years given the strong revival of Lentiscosa maracuoccio, this hearty dish can now be found in several places, but only between Lentiscosa, Camerota, and Marina di Camerota.
Where to find it
The Lentiscosa maracuoccio’s temple is the place born in its honor, Trattoria Pizzeria Maricucciata by Gaetano Belluccio. Here you’ll be sure to eat the real maracucciata, prepared with at least 50% maracuoccio flour.
The maracucciata served at Trattoria Pizzeria Maracucciata
Just a few steps away, there is also Davide Mea with his Taverna del Mozzo, where the Lentiscosa maracuoccio can be found in their breadsticks, in cuttlefish soup, or in the fresella with mozzarella nella mortella and alici di Menaica (anchovies), depending on the current menu.
Alternatively, on a parallel street towards the square of Marina di Camerota's square, there is La Cantina del Marchese, where you can find modern tradition – try the mulignane mbuttunate, that is a tasty typical dish of stuffed eggplants.
The maracucciata served at Oasi Rinfreschi
Finally, a special place, above the Baia degli Infreschi, is Oasi Infreschi, where you can only get there on foot from the beach or for the more daring directly from the Marina di Camerota port. Regardless of the place of departure, the arrival into an atmosphere revels in that of a real oasis is the same, a place where you are welcomed and can enjoy a hearty meal, dining al fresco among the vegetable garden and olive trees, which Cilento before the sea, it was always and above all land.