Zeppole are eaten for breakfast, as a snack, but also (and above) all at night, after an evening spent with friends, or at least those with a sweet tooth. Basically, these treats are eaten all year round and at all hours. They have different names in different parts of Campania. While in Naples they’re known by all as graffe, in and around Salerno they’re mainly called zeppole. In any case, you can find them everywhere: cafés, pastry shops or even special zeppolerie. And you can get them until late in the evening. I
t’s very soft and sweet, in the shape of a small donut, freshly fried, covered with sugar, and possibly filled with all kinds of creams: hazelnut, white chocolate, dark chocolate, double chocolate, lemon, pistachio... They’re a social ritual that’s as important as the after-dinner coffee. Nobody goes home before having eaten a zeppola or something similar at midnight.
Lengthy leavening in a place that can guarantee a constant temperature is fundamental for getting a really soft result. For this reason, the larger-sized zeppole found in pastry shops and bars rarely get made at home, where an alternative version is traditionally prepared. In addition to the small size, the difference lies in the ingredients: the home variant also includes the use of potatoes. Our only recommendation: eat them freshly fried!
The traditional recipe for Zeppole or Neapolitan Graffe
Ingredients:
3 1/3 cups Italian 00 flour
9 oz potatoes
1/3 cup milk
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup butter
2 1/2 tbsp brewer’s yeast
3 eggs
rind of one lemon
Oil for frying
Salt
Method:
Peel the potatoes, boil them and mash them with a fork. Dissolve the yeast in the milk at room temperature. Beat the eggs with the sugar, softened butter, grated lemon zest and a pinch of salt. Add the milk and yeast to the mixture and stir with a whisk. Add the mashed potatoes and the flour, stirring until you get a smooth dough. Cover the dough with a cloth and let it rest for 30 minutes.
Form the donuts by creating cylinders about one inch thick, then connect the ends so they take a donut shape. Place the donuts on a baking sheet with lightly floured parchment paper so they don’t stick. Cover with a cloth and let rest for about 2 hours.
Fry a few zeppole at a time in a large pan with plenty of oil: they only take a few minutes per side, and should be removed when golden brown. Remember, it’s important to change the frying oil often and the zeppole shouldn’t sink to the bottom of the pan, but remain afloat.
Let them dry on paper towels, then dip them in granulated sugar (or powdered sugar), covering them completely. If you want, you can also add a little cinnamon to the sugar for extra flavor. Serve immediately.