This is a traditional dessert in Northern Italy, made in Lombardy, especially in Milan, and in Tuscany. Pan dei morti is eaten the night between November 1st and 2nd to observe the Day of the Dead, hence the name. It’s a humble, austere dessert suited to the occasion, and it has ancient origins. It’s said that the first version was served in ancient Greece and made from water, flour and raisins. It was offered in honor of the goddess Demeter to ensure a good harvest. In the Catholic tradition, pan dei morti is eaten with two other, less elaborate desserts, bones of the dead and beans of the dead. The custom is that the living offer these three cookies to their deceased relatives who make a long and strenuous journey during the night between November 1st and 2nd to return to earth from the next world.
Pan dei morti, a humble recipe
In the peasant world, the recipe for pan dei morti reflected the need to create a rich and nourishing treat with ingredients found at home, from stale cookies and dried fruit. As time went by, other ingredients like cocoa and wine were added, until pan dei morti made the transition from home kitchens to the finest pastry shops.
The recipe for pan dei morti
Ingredients: 9 oz. assorted crumbled cookies, 2/3 cup flour, 10 tbsp. sugar, 1 tsp. vanilla baking powder, 1 tbsp. cocoa powder, 1/2 cup blanched, minced almonds, 1/3 cup minced dried figs, 2/3 cup soaked and dried sultana raisins, 3 unbeaten egg whites, 1 dash cinnamon, white wine (either sweet or dry) as needed.
Directions: Place all the ingredients in a large bowl and mix them together until a soft, even dough forms. Divide the mixture into balls and mold them into a flat, oval shape. Place each cookie on a baking sheet covered with parchment paper and bake in a preheated 375°F oven for 30 minutes. When done, remove the cookies from the oven and wait until they cool.