Fashion in Milan brings color, texture and design to the streets with a uniquely Italian attention to detail. From buckles on shoes to stitching on shirt collars, nothing is too small to merit an artisan’s care and style. It’s hardly surprising, then, that Franciacorta Satèn, a wine made a stone’s throw away from the fashion capital, is as smooth and delicate as pressed silk.
The registered name Satèn is, in fact, a nod to the wine’s luxurious appeal. Aged on lees in the bottle for a minimum of 24 months – 30 for vintage, 60 for riserva – Satèn DOCG relies on the traditional method technique of secondary fermentation and low bottle pressure to achieve its fine bubbly froth. It’s a brut wine, meaning it has a relatively low sugar dosage, which contributes to its soft, creamy yet dry taste. Its intense, straw yellow hue and fruity aroma derive from its exclusive reliance on Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco grapes up to a maximum proportion of 50%.
Northern Italy prides itself on much more than fashion and wine, of course. Local gastronomy departs from that of other Italian regions in its preference for cooking with wines, broths, butter and chopped herbs. Risotto is a Lombard favorite: nutritious and refined, and just right for the transition to fall’s chillier nights. This version, made with Carnaroli rice and aged parmigiano, hits all the right notes, with a subtle sweetness from the onion and a velvety texture that’s made even lighter by the parmigiano mousse. We recommend pairing it with an elegant Satèn.
UNEXPECTED RISOTTO “ALLA MILANESE” WITH PARMIGIANO MOUSSE PARMIGIANO MOUSSE
For the risotto:
1 ¼ cups Carnaroli rice
3 ⅓ cups chicken broth
1 white onion
¾ cup dry white wine
50 g grated parmigiano
3 ½ tablespoons butter
¾ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon saffron
For the Parmigiano mousse:
1 cup cream
1 cup milk
1 ½ cups parmigiano
1 33 fl. oz. seltzer siphon
1 CO2 cartridge
Start with the parmigiano mousse.
Melt the cheese into the milk and cream for about 20 minutes, heating rapidly.
Pass through a fine sieve. Pour the liquid in the siphon and charge with a dose of CO2, and shake it. Leave the siphon apart.
Now it’s time for risotto.
In a heavy-based saucepan, lightly fry the sliced onion with oil and a tablespoon of the butter over medium heat. Simmer with half of the white wine, Add the rice and stir continuously for five minutes, until it looks translucent and fragrant. Then add the remaining white wine. When the rice has absorbed all the liquid, add 2 cups of chicken broth and allow the rice to simmer slowly. Cook until most of the liquid has been absorbed, stirring constantly.
Keep cooking, stirring, and adding broth until the rice is al dente. A few minutes before the rice is done, add the remaining butter and cheese and stir until creamy. Spread the saffron on the plate and add risotto. Then add a tablespoon of the parmesan mousse from the siphon and stir it gently.
Serve the unexpected risotto alla milanese with the parmigiano mousse with a glass of Franciacorta Satèn.